Fitted Belted Jacket with Shoulder Pleats

Name: Fitted Belted Jacket with Shoulder Pleats
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4768
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4768

A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with a shawl-style collar cut in one with the fronts, stitched pleats at the front shoulders and princess seams front and back. It fastens with two buttons, comes with a separate self-fabric tie belt and is fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Belted Jacket with Shoulder Pleats

When To Wear

In spring and autumn over blouses and thin knits, with trousers or a straight skirt.
At the office or for a daytime event, with the belt tied in a bow at the front.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the fronts and back; the waist is drawn in by the tie belt.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Grown-on shawl-style collar cut in one with the centre fronts, joined by a seam at the centre back and set into the back neckline; the facing collar is made the same way.

Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam and a front seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Closure: V-neck front with two buttons and buttonholes on the right front.

Front: Stitched pleats at the shoulder line, their depths pressed to both sides, and princess seams running to the hem.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts pressed towards the centre.

Waist: Separate tie belt, folded lengthwise and stitched, tied in a bow at the front.

Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, attached to the front facings, the back neck facing and the jacket and sleeve hems.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A grown-on collar joined to the back neckline, front pleats, two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and a lining bagged out through an opening in the sleeve seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing)
2 buttons
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Waistband (tie belt) – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: Center Front, Back Neckline Facing, Center Front Facing.

Attention: lining pieces are cut from the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the Center Front, Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facing pieces.
Stitch the darts on the back, press the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances open.
Stitch the pleats on the Center Front according to the markings, spread the pleat depths to both sides and press. Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front), press the allowances open.
Stitch the center back seam of the grown-on collar, press the allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back. Clip the shoulder seam allowance on the front at the neck point and stitch the collar into the back neckline, press the allowances open.
Stitch side seams, press allowances open.
Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sew in the sleeve heads.
Stitch the center back collar seam on the Center Front Facings, press the allowances open. Stitch the shoulder edges of the Center Front Facings to the Back Neckline Facing, clipping the allowances at the corners. Stitch the facing collar into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing, press the allowances open. Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Attach the lining to the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
Place the facing on the jacket, right sides together, pin and stitch the front edges and collar. Attach the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the lining sleeve. Tack together the neckline seam allowances of the upper and under collar. Close the opening in the lining sleeve.
Make the buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
Fold the Waistband (tie belt) lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out, shape and press. Close the opening.