Tailored One-Button Jacket with Trim
A fitted, collarless women's jacket ending just below the waist, with a deep V-neckline edged in a wavy contrast trim, a single-button front, double-welt pockets and princess seams front and back. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- For the office, with matching trousers or a straight skirt.
- Over a dress or a fine knit top for daytime events in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams that run from the shoulders on the front and from the armholes on the back.
Length: Just below the waist.
Neckline: Collarless V-neckline. A separate trim piece in contrast fabric follows the neckline in a wavy line from the shoulders down to the button.
Closure: One button and buttonhole at the point of the V.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, with the shoulder seam continued a short way into the top of the sleeve cap.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets set into a horizontal seam that divides the side front into upper and lower pieces.
Back: Centre back seam and two princess seams.
Finishing: Front facings and a back neck facing; hems of the body and sleeves interfaced and turned up 3 cm; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, attached to the facings and to the jacket and sleeve hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Double-welt pockets in a seam, a trim sewn along a curved edge, a shaped sleeve cap and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres; a contrast fabric for the neckline trim.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, welts, trim, hem allowances)
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Lower and side edges of pocket bag – 2 cm. Side edges of welt – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lower side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt pocket frame – 4 pieces
- Pocket facing – 2 pieces
From contrasting fabric:
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Welt pocket frame – 4 pieces
- Front trim – 2 pieces
Attention: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Also fuse the hem allowance of the jacket bottom and sleeve bottom.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Attach the front trim to the front. Trim allowances to 0.5 cm, clip at curves and press open.
- Fold the welt frame pieces in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the welt frames to the upper and lower side front pieces. Overlock the lower edge of the pocket facing. Place the pocket facing on the upper pocket bag, align the upper edges and stitch to the pocket bag along the upper and lower edges. Place the larger pocket bag on the upper welt frame and stitch. Attach the lower pocket bag to the lower welt frame. Turn the pocket bags to the wrong side and direct downwards. Stitch the pocket bags together.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Place the front facings and back neckline facing with the front, right sides together, and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner, stopping 1.5 cm before the edge of the front facing. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams, and press.
- Cut the sleeve at the upper, along the upper edge of the sleeve cap up to a 0.5 cm allowance on each side. Stitch the continuation of the shoulder seam on the sleeve. Press allowances open. Attach the upper of the sleeve cap to the sleeve. Gradually taper the stitching. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads, stitch sleeve heads to the new sleeve cap line.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing. Press the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the front facing and neckline facing. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
