Fitted Denim Fly Front Jeans Skirt
A women's knee-length fitted denim skirt with curved panel seams on the front, a fly-front zipper, a back yoke with two patch pockets and a centre back vent. All seams are finished with double topstitching in jeans style.
When To Wear
- Every day with T-shirts, shirts and knitwear.
- In spring and autumn with tights, boots or trainers and a denim or leather jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted pencil skirt, close to the body from waist to hem.
Length: About knee length.
Front: Each half of the front is made of three panels (centre, middle and side) joined by vertical and curved seams, pressed towards the centre and topstitched. Centre front seam.
Closure: Jeans-style fly with a 15 cm zipper and a fly facing; one button and buttonhole on the waistband.
Waist: Straight waistband folded in half and interfaced, with belt loops.
Back: A yoke dipping to a point at the centre back seam, two patch pockets and a vent at the centre back.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the back, with a turned and topstitched top edge.
Finishing: Double topstitching 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seams on the panel seams, yoke, centre front and belt loops; hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A jeans fly with a fly facing, a back vent, many shaped panel seams and even double topstitching on denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (fly facing, waistband, vent, front fly extension)
- 1 zipper, 15 cm long
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center – 2 pieces
- Middle – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Fly facing - 1 piece
- Belt loop - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: fly facing, waistband.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Reinforce the fly facing, waistband, vent, and the integrated placket allowance on the front with fusible interfacing.
- Fold the belt loop lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the raw edges and stitch along the long side. Turn right side out, straighten the seam, positioning it in the middle of the wrong side, and press. Topstitch along the long sides with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Cut the belt loop piece according to the size.
- Press the upper edge allowance of the back pocket to the wrong side, fold under and topstitch. Overlock the pocket edges, press the allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the back according to the markings and topstitch.
- Attach the yoke to the back skirt, press the allowances towards the yoke and topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Overlock the allowance of the center back seam, simultaneously overlocking the vent. Stitch the center back seam and the vent with one seam, press the allowances towards the left side seam. Secure the vent allowances with machine stitching.
- Stitch the middle to the center, press the allowances towards the center, overlock and topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Stitch the side to the middle, press the allowances towards the center, overlock and topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm.
- Trim the integrated placket allowance on the left front, leaving 2 cm. Overlock the center edges of the front panels. Stitch the center edge of the front from the "zipper" mark downwards, at the mark, clip the allowance. Press the allowances to the right side, overlock and topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Press the integrated placket allowance on the right to the wrong side along the center front line, and on the left – 1 cm from the edge. Overlock the open edges of the fly facing and press it lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the zipper under the edge of the placket allowance on the left side, close to the edge, positioning the teeth close to the fold and placing the fly facing with the fold towards the center so that the overlocked edge covers the zipper tape. Pin the opening, aligning the center front lines. Attach the free zipper tape to the facing of the right side of the closure, without catching the fabric of the front. Topstitch the fly, folding back the fly facing. Finish the stitching 2 – 2.5 cm before the center seam. Then, fold the fly facing back into place and continue stitching to the seam.
- Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold the waistband piece lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short sides, turn right side out, press. Attach the outer of the waistband to the upper edge (ease the upper edge), fold the allowance of the inner inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam. Make a buttonhole, sew on the button.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Topstitch the belt loops onto the waistband according to the technical drawing.
