Bow Collar Shift Dress
A women's above-knee shift dress with princess seams front and back, a wide stand collar with a bow threaded through a loop, short pleated lined sleeves and two welt pockets set into the front panel seams.
When To Wear
- For the office in spring and summer, alone or under a cropped jacket.
- For daytime events and meetings, with plain court shoes.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Shaped close to the body by princess seams from the armholes on the front and back; straight skirt.
Length: Above the knee, hem turned up 2 cm and slip-stitched by hand.
Collar: Wide stand collar cut in one piece, its ends folded in half and sewn to the neckline seam. A narrow loop wraps around the collar at the front, and a separate bow is threaded through it and fixed with a few stitches. The collar ends close at the back with two hooks and eyes.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with pleats at the hem, lined with self fabric; the cap is eased into the armhole.
Front: Centre front panel and side front panels divided into upper and lower parts.
Pockets: Welt pockets in the seam between the upper and lower side front panels, with interfaced folded welts; the pocket bags are caught into the side and princess seams.
Back: Centre back seam with a concealed zipper and a vent at the hem, the vent allowance 6 cm wide; princess seams on both back pieces.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. In-seam welt pockets, a back vent, a concealed zipper and a stand collar assembled with a loop and hooks.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Concealed zipper
- Fusible interfacing (welts)
- 2 hooks and eyes
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm, slit allowance – 6 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lower side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- Pocket lining – 2 pieces
- Bridge – 1 piece
- Bow – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the welts with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center back seam and serge.
- On the left back piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the slit. On both back pieces, interface the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center back seam line (the slit fold line). Press the left piece along the slit fold line. On the right piece, press only the right slit allowance (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center back seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Serge the center back edge of each piece separately. Serge the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the fastener mark to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center back seam allowances open, press the slit allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Press the welt in half lengthwise, right side out. Place the pocket lining on the lower front piece, right sides together, insert the welt between them and stitch. Fold the lining to the wrong side, straighten the welt, and press. Place the lower front piece on the upper front piece and stitch the lower edge of the pocket lining, serge the allowances. Secure the pocket lining to the side and princess seams.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold the bridge in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch the long side. Turn right side out, press, centering the seam.
- Stitch the collar ends, inserting hooks and eyes, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the collar attachment line. Trim allowances at the corners. Turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press. Attach the outer collar to the neckline, inserting the lower side of the bridge between the pieces, fold the inner side under and topstitch into the attachment seam. Wrap the bridge around the collar, secure from the wrong side. Fold the collar ends in half lengthwise and sew the collar ends to the attachment seam.
- Form pleats on the sleeve according to markings. Place the sleeve and lining right sides together and stitch the lower edge. Unfold the sleeve and stitch the sleeve and lining edges in one seam. Press allowances open. Fold the lining to the wrong side, secure at the sleeve cap. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap. Press and serge allowances.
- Serge the dress hem allowance, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Attach the slit allowance to the hem.
- Fold the bow in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening for turning. Turn the piece right side out, close the opening. Thread the bow through the bridge, secure with a few stitches.
