Blouse with Gathered Neck, Double Peplum & Waist Tie
A women's pull-on blouse with soft pleats at the round neckline front and back, a waist band, a two-tier peplum and long sleeves gathered into buttoned cuffs. Worn with a separate tie belt.
When To Wear
- For the office or daytime events, with a pencil skirt or slim trousers.
- In spring and autumn; the long sleeves and stretch satin suit cooler days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Bodice fitted into a waist band, with two layered peplums below it; hip length.
Neckline: Round neckline with soft pleats on the front and back, turned towards the shoulder seams; finished with interfaced front and back facings.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a gathered sleeve cap. The wrist opening is bound with a 4 cm bias strip and the lower edge is gathered into an interfaced cuff with one button and buttonhole.
Front: Front and back each cut in one piece on the fold, with no fastening; the blouse goes on over the head.
Waist: A separate band (front and back inserts) joins the bodice to the peplums. A self-fabric tie belt, sewn from two pieces or one piece on the fold, ties in a bow.
Back: Same construction as the front: pleated neckline, waist band and two peplums.
Finishing: Upper and lower peplums cut on the fold, hems turned up 1 cm and topstitched; the two layers are basted together at the top and joined to the band in one seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Bound sleeve openings, gathered sleeve caps, cuffs with buttonholes and two peplum layers sewn in one seam, all in slippery stretch satin.
Fabric Recommendations
Silk stretch satin.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (cuffs, neckline facings)
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Front insert - 1 piece
- Upper front peplum - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front peplum - 1 piece on fold
- Back insert - 1 piece
- Upper back peplum - 1 piece on fold
- Lower back peplum - 1 piece on fold
- Waistband – 2 pieces (optionally, 1 piece on fold)
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- On the back and front pieces, create soft pleats, with the pleat depths directed towards the shoulder seam. Secure the pleats along the neckline edges.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch, finish, and press the shoulder edges of the facings towards the back. Finish the outer edge of the facings. Place the facings and main piece right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances, turn facings right side out and press.
- Stitch the side edges of the inserts, upper and lower peplums separately. Press seam allowances towards the back and finish. Finish the lower edges of the peplums, fold up 1 cm and topstitch.
- Attach the insert to the main piece. Press seam allowances towards the insert and finish. Layer the peplums on top of each other and secure along the upper edge. Attach the peplums to the insert, press seam allowances towards the insert and finish.
- Slash the sleeve opening at the mark. Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide, with a length equal to twice the opening length + 3 cm. Press the bias strip in half lengthwise, fold the outer edges to the middle and press again. Finish the opening with the bias strip. Trim excess bias strip. Stitch the sleeve seam, finish seam allowances and press. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges and finish the corner. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment. Along the upper of the sleeve cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Finish seam allowances and press towards the sleeve.
- Make buttonholes and sew buttons onto the cuffs.
- Stitch the waistband pieces. Press seam allowance open. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short and long sides, leaving a 10-15 cm opening on the long side. Turn the waistband right side out, straighten and press. Stitch the opening closed.
