Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, two types of contrasting fabric. Also needed: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper, decorative buckle 8 cm high, eyelets.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance for the dress bottom – 4 cm; other allowances – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 1 piece
- Lower back part - 1 piece on fold
- Back insert_2 - 1 piece
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
- Front insert_2 - 1 piece
- Back facing - 1 piece
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Belt - 1 piece
- From contrasting fabric 1:
- Back insert_1 - 1 piece
- Front insert_1 - 1 piece
- From contrasting fabric 2:
- Back insert_3 - 1 piece
- Front insert_3 - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing - 1 piece
- Front facing - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce facings with fusible interfacing.
- On the upper back pieces, stitch the waist darts, trim the depths to 1 cm, overcast, and press towards the center. On the upper front pieces, stitch the darts 3 cm from the lower edge, spread the depth to two sides, and press.
- Stitch the center front seam, press allowances open and overcast.
- On the lower back piece, create and secure the pleats, with depths directed towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances upwards and overcast. Attach insert_1 to the lower back piece, press allowances upwards and overcast. Attach insert_2 to insert_1, press allowances upwards and overcast. Attach insert_3 to insert_2, press allowances upwards and overcast. Process the front part similarly.
- Overcast the left side seams separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom, press allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper. Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the center front facing seam, starting the stitch strictly at the marked neckline line, press allowances open. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the facings, press allowances open. Overcast the lower edge. Fold the facing with the neckline right sides together. Stitch the neckline edge, clip allowances at curves. Turn the piece right side out and press. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the back, then the front. Clip allowances at curves, press. Secure the facing to the garment at the side and center allowances.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long and one short side. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the allowances of the unstitched section and topstitch 0.5 cm from the perimeter of the belt. Thread and secure the buckle. Adjust the belt length and punch eyelets.
