Tailored Blazer with Decorative Lapels
A fitted, fully lined women's jacket at hip length with a deep V opening edged by decorative lapels, a stand collar, front yokes and a horizontal waist band front and back. It closes edge to edge with two hooks and eyes.
When To Wear
- To the office over a fine top or a dress with a high neckline.
- With a pencil skirt or straight trousers in autumn and spring.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams and darts on the front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Stand collar, outer stand set into the back neckline and inner stand into the facing.
Front: Deep V opening. Each front has a shoulder yoke and a separate two-layer lapel stitched onto the front along the opening, a waist insert and a lower front. Edge-to-edge closure with two hooks and eyes set into the front edge seam.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, eased sleeve cap, sleeve heads.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams, darts, and a waist insert continuing the front band, with a separate lower back.
Finishing: Front facing seam allowance understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; interfaced front facings and back neck facing; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining including sleeves, bagged through an opening in the right sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Many panels to match across front and back, applied lapels, a two-part stand collar, hooks set into the edge seam and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, yokes, inserts, facings, inner collar stand, sleeve hems)
- 2 hooks and eyes
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Back insert – 1 piece
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Lapel – 4 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- center front
- front yoke
- front insert
- lower front
- front facing
- back neckline facing
- inner collar stand
- sleeve hem
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the pieces.
- On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Attach the back insert to the upper back, press allowances towards the insert. Attach the lower back to the insert, press allowances towards the insert.
- On the front, stitch darts and press them upwards. Stitch and press open the front princess seams.
- Fold lapel pieces in pairs and stitch the outer edge. Turn pieces right side out, press, place on the front and secure along the raw edges.
- Attach the yoke to the front, press allowances towards the yoke. Attach the front insert to the upper front, press allowances towards the insert. Attach the lower front to the insert, press allowances towards the insert.
- Stitch the outer collar stand into the back neckline, press allowances open. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the inner collar stand into the facing neckline, press allowances open. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and collar stand edge, inserting hook-and-eye closures according to markings. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn out the front edges and collar stand, straighten seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set in sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set in sleeves, similar to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Secure the seam allowances of the collar stand attachment close to the seams. Attach the lower edges of the front facings to the front. Trim allowances at corners. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten seams. Press the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Sew up the opening.
