Blazer with Wide collar and Asymmetric Closure

Name: Blazer with Wide collar and Asymmetric Closure
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4242
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4242

A fitted, fully lined women's jacket at high-hip length with an asymmetric buttoned front, curved seams across the right front, a wide collar and two-piece sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Blazer with Wide collar and Asymmetric Closure

A fitted, fully lined women's jacket at high-hip length with an asymmetric buttoned front, curved seams across the right front, a wide collar and two-piece sleeves.

When To Wear

Over dresses and sheath skirts to the office.
With trousers and a fine knit for autumn and spring days.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams and darts on the front and back.

Length: High hip, with a rounded front edge at the hem.

Collar: Wide interfaced collar, its ends sewn into the front edge so it wraps across to the closure.

Front: Asymmetric. The right centre front is made of three pieces joined by curved seams, with buttonholes left open in these seams; the remaining buttonholes are worked by machine. Buttons sewn to the left front.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, eased sleeve cap, sleeve heads.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.

Finishing: Front edges, neckline and hem finished with interfaced facings (front facing, back neck facing and back hem facing); shoulder pads.

Lining: Full lining including sleeves, bagged through an opening in the right sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. In-seam buttonholes matched between the front and the pieced facing, curved seams, a facing that runs round the whole edge and hem, set-in two-piece sleeves and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, facings, collar)
5 buttons
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem - 3.5 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the face side!

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front right_1 – 1 piece
- Center front right_2 – 1 piece
- Center front right_3 – 1 piece
- Center front left – 1 piece
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Left facing - 1 piece
- Right facing_1 – 1 piece
- Right facing_2 – 1 piece
- Right facing_3 – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back hem facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining pieces for the center back and side back and front are cut deducting the width of the neckline facing, hem facing, and front facing.
From fusible interlining:
- Center front right_1 – 1 piece
- Center front right_2 – 1 piece
- Center front right_3 – 1 piece
- Center front left – 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
- Left facing - 1 piece
- Right facing_1 – 1 piece
- Right facing_2 – 1 piece
- Right facing_3 – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back hem facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
Stitch the dart on the center left front piece, press the dart depth upwards. Stitch the princess seam on the left front, press seam allowances towards the side seam.
Place center front piece_1 on center front piece_2 right sides together and stitch from the edge of the front opening to the beginning of the buttonhole and from the end of the buttonhole to the armhole edge. Press seam allowances open. Place center front piece_2 on center front piece_3 right sides together and stitch from the edge of the front opening to the beginning of the buttonhole and from the end of the buttonhole to the armhole edge. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the princess seam on the right front, press seam allowances towards the side seam.
Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip seam allowances. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar to the jacket neckline, securing the collar ends to the front opening edge.
Place right facing_1 on right facing_2 right sides together and stitch from the edge of the front opening to the beginning of the buttonhole and from the end of the buttonhole to the inner edge. Press seam allowances open. Place right facing_2 on right facing_3 right sides together and stitch from the edge of the front opening to the beginning of the buttonhole and from the end of the buttonhole to the inner edge. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the front facing. Attach the back hem facing to the front facing. Press seam allowances open.
Place the front facing with facings on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch the front opening, front neckline, back neckline, and jacket hem. Stitching is done from the front piece side. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Stitch together the seam allowances for the buttonhole on the front piece and front facing, continuing the line of the princess seam.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and other facings. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
On the right front, make the remaining buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on the buttons.