Fitted Dress with Lace Trim

Fitted Dress with Lace Trim

A women's fitted knee-length dress with princess seams, a V-neck and short cap sleeves formed by the front and back yokes. Lace trim is set into the neckline and armhole seams and into the seams of a chevron inset on the front and of angled insets on the back.

When To Wear

• For evening events, dinners and receptions in warm weather.
• With a short jacket or wrap over the shoulders on cooler evenings.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams on the upper and lower front and on the back.

Length: Around the knee.

Neckline: V-neck at the front, shallow rounded neckline at the back, faced with the lining and edged with lace set into the seam.

Sleeves: Short cap sleeves cut in one with the front and back yokes; armholes faced with the lining in two steps, with lace set into the seam.

Front: Upper front and upper side fronts, a chevron-shaped front inset at the waist and lower centre and lower side fronts; lace is caught in the seams above and below the inset.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and angled back insets at the sides, with lace in the inset seams.

Closure: Concealed zip in the centre back seam, from the neckline down to the notch.

Finishing: Seam allowances overlocked; hem turned up 2 cm and hand-finished with blind stitches.

Lining: The upper bodice above the insets is lined; the lining faces the neckline and armholes, is slipstitched to the centre back seam and stitched to the inset seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Many panels to match at the notches, lace inserted into shaped seams, a concealed zip and a partial lining that faces the neckline and armholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Concealed zip
• Lace trim, 2.5–3.5 cm wide
• Lining fabric (upper bodice)

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Upper Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Back Insert – 2 pieces
4. Lower Side Back – 2 pieces
5. Lower Side Front – 2 pieces
6. Lower Center Front – 1 piece
7. Upper Front – 1 piece
8. Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
9. Front Insert – 1 piece
10. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
11. Back Yoke – 2 pieces

From Lining Fabric:

1. Center Back – 2 pieces (up to insert level)
2. Upper Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Upper Front – 1 piece
4. Upper Side Front – 2 pieces

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric, print and lay out the paper patterns according to your fabric width (90–150 cm) to determine required yardage.

Remember to account for paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, pay close attention to all notches — they must match precisely to ensure correct construction and fit.

Pattern markings are placed on the right side of the pieces for accurate assembly.

Assembly Instructions

1. Front – Upper and Lower Sections

Stitch the princess seams on the Upper Front, Upper Side Front, Lower Center Front, and Lower Side Front.

Overlock the seam allowances and press toward the center.

2. Side Seams

Stitch the side seams of the upper and lower sections.

Overlock the seam allowances and press toward the Back.

3. Inserts

Stitch the side seams of the Front Insert and Back Insert.

Overlock the seam allowances and press toward the Back.

Attach the inserts to the upper and lower sections, inserting lace into the seam.

Overlock the seam allowances and press upward.

4. Back

Stitch the princess seams on the Center Back, Upper Side Back, and Lower Side Back.

Overlock the seam allowances and press toward the center.

5. Yokes and Shoulders

Attach the Front Yoke and Back Yoke.

Overlock the seam allowances and press upward.

Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back and Front.

Overlock the seams and press toward the Back.

6. Center Back and Zipper

Overlock the center back edges.

Stitch the center back seam from the zipper notch to the hem.

Press the seam open, pressing the slit for the zipper.

Insert the zipper from the upper edge to the notch.

7. Lining and Neckline

Stitch the lining pieces.

Place the lining and the neckline right sides together, inserting lace into the seam.

At 5 mm from the edges of the concealed zipper, fold the lining back and pin to the upper edge of the dress.

Fold the seam allowances along the zipper to the right side of the dress and pin over the lining along the neckline.

Stitch the neckline.

Clip seam allowances at curves and at the corner.

Turn right side out and press.

8. Armholes and Lining Finish

Finish the armholes with the lining in two steps, inserting lace into the seam.

Turn the center back edge of the lining inward and secure to the center back seam.

Attach the lining to the seam of the insert.

9. Hem

Press the hem of the dress to the wrong side, overlock, and finish with blind stitches.