Tailored Blazer with Welt Pockets
Discover a women's tailored blazer pattern, distinguished by its chic asymmetrical front closure, elegant rounded collar, and sophisticated shaping.
When To Wear
This versatile tailored blazer is perfect for adding a polished touch to various ensembles, making it ideal for:
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Professional Settings: Elevate your business attire with a smart and modern silhouette.
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Smart Casual Outings: Pair with trousers or skirts for a refined yet comfortable look.
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Special Occasions: a stylish choice for events where a sophisticated and unique jacket is desired.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice with princess seams, creating a structured and flattering shape.
Collar: Features a unique rounded stand-up collar that flows seamlessly into the asymmetrical front opening.
Closure: Single-breasted front with an asymmetrical button placket secured by four buttons.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves designed for a refined, tailored fit.
Pockets: Two neatly integrated welt pockets with flaps are positioned at the lower front.
Back: Structured with princess seams for a contoured fit, concluding with a gently curved hem.
Hem: The front hem is shaped with a subtle point, while the back hem is gently curved and slightly shorter, creating a modern aesthetic.
Length: Cropped, designed to sit at or just above hip level for a contemporary silhouette.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires precision in tailoring, constructing welt pockets, and assembling a lined garment with an asymmetrical design.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose classic suiting materials that support structure and sharp tailoring:
- Lightweight suiting fabric made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 4 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem and garment hem - 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Welt - 2 pieces
- Underlay - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining pieces for the center back and front parts are cut by subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing, respectively. From fusible interfacing: center front, front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, welt, sleeve hem, and jacket hem.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Fold the welt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends. Trim corner allowances and turn the welt right side out. Straighten seams and press.
- Stitch the dart on the front and trim the depth. Press open the bust dart. Secure the pocket opening with a stay tape or baste. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front, press allowances open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Mark auxiliary lines on the welt and pocket underlay for attaching them. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening. Attach the underlap and welt to the front. The ends of the stitching should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Through the resulting opening, turn the underlap and welt to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch the ends of the welt to the front, topstitch the welt into the attachment seam on the underlap.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch the left side and the outer edge up to the center. Start stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar attachment seam. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Turn the collar right side out, straighten and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Fold the left front facing with the front right sides together and stitch the left front edge and the neckline edge up to the mark. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge from the bottom to the neckline onto the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Clip the neckline allowance near the mark. Turn the front edge right side out, straighten seams. Attach the upper collar to the back neckline and front. Press allowances open. Attach the under collar to the neckline facing and front facing. Press allowances open.
- Fold the right front facing with the front right sides together and stitch the right front edge and collar. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge from the bottom to the neckline onto the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges and collar right side out, straighten, press. Stitch a securing stitch along the collar attachment seam to the neckline.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Attach the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
