Tailored Blazer with Welt Pockets
A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with an asymmetric button front, a rounded collar that ends at the top of the closure, princess seams front and back, single-welt pockets and two-piece sleeves. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- For the office with trousers or a straight skirt.
- Over dresses and knitwear in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams and darts at the front and back.
Length: Hip length; the front hem is cut on a slant and runs to a point at the side of the closure, the back hem is straight and shorter.
Collar: Rounded collar set into the neckline, upper collar interfaced; it wraps from the back and finishes at the top of the asymmetric front edge.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam and a front seam, the cap eased in; sleeve heads and shoulder pads.
Closure: Asymmetric front fastened with buttons and buttonholes, the front edge topstitched to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam on the inside.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets in the lower fronts, set across the princess seams; welt ends topstitched to the front.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.
Finishing: Interfaced fronts, facings, welts and hems.
Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Welt pockets, an asymmetric front with the collar sewn in two stages between the jacket and the facings, two-piece sleeves with eased caps, a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre front, front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, welts, sleeve and jacket hems)
- 4 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
- Stay tape for the pocket openings
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem and garment hem - 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Welt - 2 pieces
- Pocket facing - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining pieces for the center back and front parts are cut by subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing, respectively. From fusible interfacing: center front, front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, welt, sleeve hem, and jacket hem.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Fold the welt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends. Trim corner allowances and turn the welt right side out. Straighten seams and press.
- Stitch the dart on the front and trim the depth. Press open the bust dart. Secure the pocket opening with a stay tape or baste. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front, press allowances open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Mark auxiliary lines on the welt and pocket facing for attaching them. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening. Attach the pocket facing and welt to the front. The ends of the stitching should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Through the resulting opening, turn the pocket facing and welt to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch the ends of the welt to the front, topstitch the welt into the attachment seam on the pocket facing.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch the left side and the outer edge up to the center. Start stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar attachment seam. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Turn the collar right side out, straighten and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Fold the left front facing with the front right sides together and stitch the left front edge and the neckline edge up to the mark. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge from the bottom to the neckline onto the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Clip the neckline allowance near the mark. Turn the front edge right side out, straighten seams. Attach the upper collar to the back neckline and front. Press allowances open. Attach the under collar to the neckline facing and front facing. Press allowances open.
- Fold the right front facing with the front right sides together and stitch the right front edge and collar. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge from the bottom to the neckline onto the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges and collar right side out, straighten, press. Stitch a securing stitch along the collar attachment seam to the neckline.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Attach the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
