Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: soft knit fabric with low to medium stretch (jersey). Also needed: fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for the garment and sleeve hem – 2 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Front insert — 1 piece
- Back insert — 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Undercollar – 1 piece
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!
- Reinforce the collar with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the center seam of the upper and lower back parts. Press the seam to the left side and serge. Attach the back insert to the upper and lower back parts. Press the seam towards the insert and serge.
- On the upper front part, create soft pleats according to the markings and secure them at the lower edge. The pleat depths are directed towards the side seam.
- Stitch the back neckline facings and front facings in pairs. Press seams open. Attach the collars to the neckline. Clip seams and press open.
- Stitch the center seam on the front facings from the mark to the bottom using a straight stitch machine. Clip seams at the mark and press open. Place the front facing pieces right sides together and stitch, starting from the mark, the edge of the front opening and the collar. Turn the pieces right side out and press. Secure the seam allowances of the upper and undercollar together close to the stitching line. Secure the outer edge of the front facings and back neckline facings together and then treat as one piece.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the upper back and front parts. Press seams towards the back and serge.
- Attach the front facings with the facing to the back and front. Press seams towards the back and front. Attach the front insert to the upper part. Press the seam towards the insert and serge.
- Place the pocket bag with the lower front part right sides facing inwards and stitch the pocket opening. Clip seams, turn pieces right side out and press. Align the lower front part with the side panel according to the markings and even out the edges. Stitch and serge the pocket bag edges.
- Create soft pleats on the lower front part: the pleat depths are directed towards the side seams. It is recommended to create pleats from the side seam. Attach the front insert to the lower part. Press the seam towards the insert and serge.
- Stitch the side seams. Press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Serge, fold, and topstitch the bottom edge of the dress and the bottom edge of the sleeve. The tunic is recommended to be worn with a wide belt.
