Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: double-sided dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers; lace fabric. Also needed: concealed zipper, fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 3.0 cm; hem allowance for the sleeve bottom and along the vertical neckline edges of the front panel - 1.5 cm; allowance along the vertical and bottom edges of the detachable panel - 0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Markings on the patterns are made on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Side front panel right - 1 piece
- Center front panel - 1 piece
- Side front panel left - 1 piece
- Inner front yoke — 1 piece
- Detachable panel – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- From lace fabric:
- Front yoke - 1 piece
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the waist and shoulder darts on the back. Press the dart fullness towards the center.
- On both back pieces, interface the vent from the wrong side. Overlock the center edges separately on each piece. On the right side, mark the center seam line (the fold line of the vent). Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the vent corner. Clip the vent seam allowance at the corner. Press open the center seam allowances, pressing the zipper opening, and press the vent to the left side. Press the right side of the vent 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch. Topstitch the vent allowances along the top with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the center front panel to the side front panels. Press the allowances towards the center and overlock.
- Stitch the darts on the yoke and inner front yoke. Press the dart fullness towards the center. Clip the upper edge of the inner yoke at the marks. Overlock the upper edge from the armholes to the marks, press to the right(!) side and topstitch. Place the inner yoke and outer yoke right sides together and stitch the horizontal section of the neckline. Clip the allowances at the corners. Turn the inner yoke to the wrong side, press, secure it to the outer yoke along the armhole edges and bottom edge, and treat as one piece thereafter. Overlock the vertical neckline edges of the front panel, press the allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Overlock the vertical and bottom edges of the detachable panel with a narrow rolled hem. Place the detachable panel on the front, form pleats according to the markings, and secure along the upper and side edges.
- Attach the yoke to the front panel, press the allowances upwards and overlock.
- Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the outer edge of the back neckline facings. Place the dress and facing right sides together, aligning the neckline edges. Before reaching 5 mm from the edges of the concealed zipper, fold back the facing and pin it to the upper edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the allowances along the zipper and pin them to the neckline edge over the facing. Stitch the neckline edge, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip the allowances at the curves, turn the pieces out and press. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front panel between the back and back facing. Press the allowances, overlock. Turn the facing to the wrong side.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances and overlock. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Press the allowances and overlock. Overlock the bottom edge of the sleeve, press the allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
