Hooded Quilted Vest
A hip-length women's insulated vest with a three-piece hood, a separating front zip and horizontal puffed channels formed by elastic stitched on the inside. Lined, with bound armholes, hood edge and hem.
When To Wear
- In autumn and early spring over sweaters, sweatshirts and long-sleeve tops.
- For walks and outdoor errands with jeans or casual trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, hip length; front and back are gathered into yokes and drawn in by rows of elastic, so the body forms horizontal puffed bands.
Collar: Hood of three pieces (centre panel and two sides), sewn into the neckline; the hood edge is slightly gathered and bound with bias tape.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes slightly gathered and bound with elastic binding.
Closure: Separating zip from hem to neckline, backed by a padded inner placket; a narrow strip of the main fabric is topstitched along each front edge and continues up the hood edge.
Pockets: Pockets in the shaped seams joining front and back, with the openings bound with elastic bias tape; the pocket bags are padded.
Back: Back yoke and gathered back panel with elastic channels. The hood seams are pressed towards the centre panel and topstitched 0.7 cm.
Finishing: Outer pieces quilted onto insulation; hem slightly gathered and bound.
Lining: Full lining of body and hood, attached to front facings and a back neck facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Working with insulation, stitching elastic channels, gathering into yokes, a separating zip with a placket, binding curved edges.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabric for the shell.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Insulation (polyester wadding or Isosoft)
- Separating zip (length marked on the front pattern piece)
- Elastic for the quilting channels, 1.5–2 cm wide
- Elastic binding tape for edge finishing
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: seam allowance for lining edges – 1 cm; for armhole edges, pocket opening edge, hood cutout, and garment hem – 0 cm, all other seams – 1.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Back - 1 piece
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Central hood - 1 piece
- Side hood - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Inner placket — 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Back lining – 1 piece
- Central hood - 1 piece
- Side hood - 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From insulation:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Back - 1 piece
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Central hood - 1 piece
- Side hood - 2 pieces
- Inner placket — 1 piece
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
Note: 1). The hood lining is cut according to the main fabric patterns. 2). The insulation is cut according to the main fabric patterns. 3). Before starting work, check the fabric's resistance to wet-heat treatment.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Stitch the yokes, back, front, pocket bags, and hood pieces to the corresponding insulation pieces. Stitch the placket to the insulation. Stitch the inner placket along the short sides and one long side. Turn the pieces right side out, press, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- On the wrong side of the back and front, stitch the elastic along the markings, stretching it slightly (elastic length is indicated on the patterns).
- Along the upper edge of the front, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the yoke to the front. Press the seam upwards. Along the upper edge of the back, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the yoke to the back. Press the seam upwards.
- Fold the small pocket bag with the front wrong sides together and bind the pocket opening with elastic bias tape. Attach the large pocket bag to the shaped edge of the back. Stitch the pocket bags together. Stitch the shaped edge of the front and back. Press the seam towards the center of the front.
- Stitch the shoulder edges, press the allowances open.
- Stitch the hood pieces. Press the seam towards the center and topstitch 0.7 cm. Insert the hood into the neckline. Press the seam.
- Cut 2 strips from the main fabric along the grain, 3.2 cm wide and equal to the length of the front edge (including the hood) + 4 cm. Press the longitudinal edges 1 cm inwards. Place the strip wrong side down on the right side of the front. Fold back the outer edge and align it with the front edge. Extend 2 cm at the top and bottom. Secure the strip to the front 0.5 cm from the edge of the front.
- Stitch the right half of the zipper to the inner placket, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the open edge of the placket. Attach the placket with the zipper to the right front edge. Attach the left half of the zipper to the left front.
- Lining: Stitch the lining pieces of the back, front, and hood separately. Stitch the shoulder and shaped edges. Stitch and press open the shoulder seam of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Insert the hood into the neckline.
- Bind the front edge with lining. Secure the hood insertion allowances of the main fabric and lining pieces together. Secure the hood and lining along the hood cutout, slightly gathering the edge. Bind the hood cutout with bias tape.
- Secure the main fabric and lining at the armhole, slightly gathering the edge and aligning the edges of the main fabric and lining. Measure the length of the bias tape, equal to the armhole length + 2 cm. Stitch the bias tape into a loop. Bind the armhole edge.
- Secure the main fabric and lining at the garment hem, slightly gathering the edge and aligning the edges of the main fabric and lining. Bind the bottom edge.
- Topstitch the strip along the front edge, folding the top and bottom ends inwards.
