Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 2 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance - 3 cm. Pocket top edge allowance – 3.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing and back neckline facing.
- Fuse interfacing to the top edge allowance of the pocket, press 1 cm to the wrong side. Fold the top edge allowance to the right side and stitch the side edges. Turn to the right side, straighten the corners. Press the side and bottom allowances to the wrong side. Topstitch the top edge allowance at 2.5 cm. Topstitch the pocket onto the front according to markings.
- Clip the front shoulder seam allowance at the corner. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back, overcast.
- Stitch the center seam of the collar on the front pieces, press allowances open. Attach the undercollar to the back neckline. Clip and press open the attachment seam.
- Clip the front facing shoulder seam allowance at the corner. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing, press allowances open. Stitch the center seam of the collar on the front facings, press allowances open. Attach the upper collar to the facing neckline. Press open the attachment seam. Overcast the outer edge of the front facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, lapel, and collar edge. Stitch the bottom edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Trim the seams of the bottom corners of the front edge, clip allowances on curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the front edge, lapel, and collar.
- Stitch the side seams, press allowances open and overcast.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge on the right side and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overcast the bottom edge, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Secure the allowances of the collar attachment seams close to the seams.
- On the right front, overcast a buttonhole, on the left front, sew on a button. Overcast a buttonhole on the left front and sew on an inner button.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the belt to the right side, turn in the allowances of the unstitched section and topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt.
