Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers; contrasting fabric for trim. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; 1 button; 1 decorative buckle. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front - 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Collar — 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back hem facing — 2 pieces
- Front hem facing — 2 pieces
- Inner belt part – 2 pieces
- Outer belt part upper – 2 pieces
- Outer belt part lower – 2 pieces
- From contrasting fabric:
- Collar trim – 4 pieces
- Belt trim – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Collar trim – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back hem facing — 2 pieces
- Front hem facing — 2 pieces
ATTENTION! Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns without facings.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back.
- Stitch trim pieces to collar pieces, press seam allowances towards the trim. Stitch the center seams of the collars, press seam allowances open. Place collars right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn collar right side out, shape, press. Baste collar to vest neckline.
- Stitch the lining back and front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center of the pieces. Stitch hem facings to lining pieces, press seam allowances upwards. Stitch the center back lining seam, press seam allowances to the left. Stitch the back neckline facing and front facings to the lining, press seam allowances towards the main fabric. Stitch shoulder and side seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam.
- Place the garment and lining right sides together and stitch along the front edge, neckline, and hem. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the vest right side out, shape, press.
- Stitch the armhole in two steps through the opening in the side seam: back armhole from shoulder seam to side seam, and front armhole from shoulder seam to side seam. Close the technical opening.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole according to markings, sew a button on the left front.
- Stitch the upper and lower outer belt pieces to the belt trim, press seam allowances towards the trim. Stitch the center seams of the belt pieces, press seam allowances open. Place belt pieces right sides together and stitch the upper and lower edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the piece right side out, shape, press. Finish the short sides. Thread the finished short sides of the belt through the buckle and topstitch.
