Coat with Lapels and Zipper Pockets

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric, fusible interlining; one separating zipper; two zippers for pockets; decorative fastener; shoulder pads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for coat bottom and sleeve bottom - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lapel – 4 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Pocket guard – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
• From fusible interlining:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing - 1 piece
  • Lapel – 2 pieces

Back lining pieces are cut by subtracting the back neckline facing pieces.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. Fuse the area under the pocket opening. Fuse the sleeve hem allowance.
2. Stitch darts on back pieces. Press depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open.
3. Topstitch the pocket guard to the large pocket bag. Mark the pocket placement on the front. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts (on the side front piece). Turn the pocket allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Stitch the pocket bags right sides to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Place the zipper under the pocket opening edges so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper, sewing from the right side and folding back the pocket bags. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags, catching the corners.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances open.
5. Stitch the center seams of the lapels. Press seam allowances open. Fold lapels right sides together and stitch the outer edges of the lapels and the collar stand in one seam. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 3 cm from the edge.
6. Stitch the princess seams of the front, inserting the lapel and simultaneously stitching it into the front neckline (small section between notches) and the back neckline. Clip seam allowances at notch 2, press princess seam allowances open, press neckline allowances.
7. Stitch the sleeve seam. Press seam allowance open. Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Press seam allowances. Attach shoulder pads.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Place the facing and front facing on the main garment right side down and stitch the neckline and front edges, inserting the zipper. Clip seam allowances at curves.
9. Stitch seams on lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left sleeve seam for turning. Stitch lining to front facings, neckline facing, bottom of garment, and sleeve bottom. Turn the coat right side out, close the technical opening.
10. Topstitch along the zipper 1 cm from the edge of the teeth.
11. Attach the decorative fastener to the lapels.