Long Sleeve Pointed Collar Diagonal Seam Dress

Long Sleeve Pointed Collar Diagonal Seam Dress

A women's fit-and-flare dress of about knee length with crossed diagonal seams on the front bodice, a collar that dips to a V at the centre front, long set-in sleeves and an invisible zipper in the centre back seam.

When To Wear

• At the office in autumn and winter, with tights and closed shoes.
• For daytime events and dinners where a dress with sleeves is needed.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice and waist, flaring into a panelled skirt.

Length: About knee length.

Collar: A two-layer collar, both layers interfaced, attached to the neckline; at the front it forms a V point.

Sleeves: Long, one-piece set-in sleeves with a single underarm seam.

Front: The bodice is made of a centre panel and two side panels with darts; the seams between them cross in an X below the bust. The lower front has a centre panel cut on the fold and two side panels, with panel seams running to the hem.

Back: Upper back with darts, joined to the lower back by a horizontal waist seam; the lower back has centre and side panels. Centre back seam with an invisible zipper from the neckline.

Finishing: Dress and sleeve hems turned up 2.5 cm and sewn by hand with blind stitches.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Matching the crossed diagonal seams, pivoting the lower front seam at a clipped corner, attaching a collar with a turned-under inner edge and inserting an invisible zipper.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (collar)
• Invisible zipper

Cutter’s Must

From main fabric:

Upper back – 2 pieces

Center Lower Back – 2 pieces

Side Lower Back – 2 pieces

Center Upper Front – 1 piece

Side Upper Front – 2 pieces

Center Lower Front – 1 piece on fold

Side Lower Front – 2 pieces

Sleeves – 2 pieces

Collar – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Collar – 2 pieces

Important Information

If pattern pieces have a double outline, seam allowances are included.
If the outline is single, seam allowances are not included.

Seam allowances:

All seams – 1 cm

Hem allowance (dress and sleeves) – 2.5 cm

Before starting, print the paper pattern pieces and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width may range from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine the required amount of material. Do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, pay attention to the notches — they must match.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the required pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the upper back pieces and press toward the center. Stitch the panel seams on the lower back pieces. Finish seam allowances and press toward the center. Join the upper and lower back sections, press seam allowances upward, and finish.
3. Finish the center edges of the back separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem. Press seam allowances open and insert the invisible zipper.
4. Stitch darts on the upper front side panels and press upward. Attach the upper side panels to the center front panel. Finish seam allowances and press upward.
5. Stitch the panel seams on the lower front section. Finish seam allowances and press toward the center.
6. Join the upper and lower front sections, clipping the lower section at the corner. Press seam allowances upward and finish.
7. Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances toward the back and finish.
8. Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edges. Start and finish stitching exactly at the marked attachment line. Clip curves and trim corners. Turn right side out, straighten, and press. Attach the upper collar to the neckline, clipping seam allowances and pressing them toward the collar. Fold the inner collar edge inward and stitch into the seam.
9. Stitch the sleeve seams. Press seam allowances toward the back and finish. Insert sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press seam allowances and finish.
10. Finish the hem allowances of the dress and sleeves, press to the wrong side, and sew using blind stitches.