Long Sleeve Cropped Jacket with Neckline Pleats

Name: Long Sleeve Cropped Jacket with Neckline Pleats
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2754
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2754

A women's cropped jacket in low-stretch knit, with an edge-to-edge open front, a round neckline with pleats on each front, and long set-in sleeves with shoulder pads. Fully faced, unlined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: for knit fabric only: low-stretch knit of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Long Sleeve Cropped Jacket with Neckline Pleats

A women's cropped jacket in low-stretch knit, with an edge-to-edge open front, a round neckline with pleats on each front, and long set-in sleeves with shoulder pads. Fully faced, unlined.

When To Wear

Over dresses and sleeveless tops, ending above the waistline of the dress.
With high-waisted skirts and trousers, for the office or evening.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted at the back by darts, with soft fullness from the neckline pleats at the front.

Length: Cropped, ending above the waist.

Neckline: Round, collarless. Pleats on each front are stitched down 4 cm from the neckline, folded towards the shoulder.

Front: Open, edges meeting at the centre with no fastening. Front facings and a back neck facing finish the front edges, neckline and hem in one seam.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves, the cap eased into the armhole; shoulder pads.

Back: Centre back seam, with shoulder darts and waist darts on each back piece.

Finishing: Hem allowances of body and sleeves interfaced, turned up 2 cm and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Neckline pleats, a facing that finishes front, neck and hem together, set-in sleeves with eased caps, and sewing a knit with stretch stitches.

Fabric Recommendations

For knit fabric only: low-stretch knit of natural or blended fibres. Sew with an elastic or narrow zigzag stitch or on an overlocker, and topstitch hems with a twin needle or coverstitch.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, hem allowances)
Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve hem - 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces and to the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves.
Stitch the shoulder darts and waist darts on the Back pieces and press them towards the centre. Stitch the centre back seam, press the allowances to the left and overlock.
Fold the pleats on the Fronts (folded towards the shoulder) and stitch them down 4 cm from the neckline.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
Stitch the Center Front Facings to the Back Neckline Facing at the shoulders and press the seams open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the facings on the jacket right sides together and stitch the front edges, the neckline and the lower edge. Trim the allowances at the corners, turn the facings to the wrong side, shape and press. Tack the facing to the shoulder seams.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances towards the back and overlock. Set the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach the shoulder pads.
Overlock the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves, press them to the wrong side and topstitch.