Women's Wrap Blouse
A women's hip-length blouse with a crossover front edged by folded plackets, a shirt collar on a stand, darts front and back, and long sleeves with a pleat and buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear
- For the office, tucked into skirts or worn over trousers.
- Under a jacket or cardigan in cooler months.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by darts on the front (pressed upwards) and on the back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Pointed shirt collar on a separate stand, closed with a button on the stand.
Front: Crossover V front. Each front edge is finished with a placket folded in half, running from the collar mark to the hem; the left front is caught into the seam of the right placket.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves; the sleeve opening is bound with a 4 cm bias strip, a pleat is laid towards the cuff, and the cuffs close with a button.
Back: Centre back seam and two vertical darts.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem turned 1 cm and 1 cm again and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar on a stand, bias-bound sleeve openings, cuffs and a crossover front with plackets.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, stand, cuffs, plackets)
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Attention! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Right front - 1 piece
- Left front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Right placket – 1 piece
- Left placket – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Right placket – 1 piece
- Left placket – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the back, press depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side.
- Stitch darts on the front. Press depths upwards.
- Press the left placket in half lengthwise. Fold the left front with the placket wrong sides together and stitch the placket from the collar attachment mark to the hem. Clip the allowance at the neckline mark. Turn the placket to the right side and press.
- Press the right placket in half lengthwise. Fold the right front with the placket wrong sides together and stitch the placket from the mark to the hem, inserting the left front between the pieces. Clip the allowance at the neckline mark. Turn the placket to the right side and press.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim seams, turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar stand attachment seam line. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press. Stitch the upper collar stand with the collar into the neckline, fold under the open edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
- Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias binding from the main fabric, 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the binding in half lengthwise and press. Press outer allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with bias binding. Create and secure the pleat on the sleeve. The depth is directed away from the closure.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overlock.
- Fold the cuff pieces in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
- Fold the hem of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes and sew buttons on the cuffs and collar stand.
