Asymmetrical Zipper Peplum Moto Jacket
A women's hip-length lined jacket with an asymmetric front closed by a separating zipper, a notched collar with wide lapels, princess seams and a lower section joined at the waist. Two zip pockets sit in the lower front.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and autumn.
- Over T-shirts, knit tops and dresses, with jeans or straight skirts.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice shaped by princess seams, with a horizontal seam at the waist and a separate lower section that flares slightly over the hips.
Collar: Notched collar with wide lapels; the upper collar is set into the jacket neckline and the undercollar into the facing. A decorative snap is set at the end of each lapel.
Closure: Asymmetric separating zipper: one tape is caught in the left front princess seam, the other is stitched to the right front edge.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam, the cap eased into the armhole; shoulder pads.
Pockets: Two zip pockets in the lower front: the zipper is set under the edges of a cut opening, teeth showing, with a lining bag behind.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams to the waist; the lower back is cut in one piece on the fold.
Lining: Full lining, joined to the hem of the body and sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. An asymmetric zipper set into a princess seam, zip pockets cut into the front, a notched collar between the jacket and the facing, two-piece sleeves and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin coating fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front pieces, collar, right facing, back neck facing)
- Shoulder pads
- 1 separating zipper
- 2 zippers for the pockets
- 2 decorative snaps
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for garment bottom and sleeve hem - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Center front left – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Lower front left – 1 piece
- Lower front right – 1 piece
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Right facing — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Lower front right – 1 piece
- Lower front left – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front left – 2 pieces
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Lower front right – 1 piece
- Lower front left – 1 piece
- Collar — 1 piece
- Right facing — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the back neckline facing and the right front facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Attention! Markings on patterns are made on the right side!
- Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances downwards.
- Stitch the right front princess seam, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower right front pieces, press allowances downwards. Stitch the upper and lower left front pieces, press allowances downwards.
- Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Cut the opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the marking, make diagonal cuts. Turn the allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and stitch. Stitch the lining right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Stitch the edges of the lining.
- Stitch the left front princess seam, inserting the left of the zipper between the pieces. Press allowances away from the center. Stitch the right of the zipper to the edge of the right front piece, with teeth facing away from the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the garment, press allowances open.
- Set the upper collar into the garment neckline. Start and end the stitching strictly at the lapel start mark. Clip allowances at the mark, press open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Set the undercollar into the neckline of the facing and back neckline facing. Start and end the stitching strictly at the lapel start mark. Clip allowances at the mark, press open.
- Place the facings and garment right sides together and stitch the front edges, lapels, collar, and lower corner of the front edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn pieces to the right side, press.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch the lining to the neckline facing and front facing. Turn the garment to the right side, straighten seams.
- Mark and press up the garment hem. Stitch the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- Attach decorative snaps to the ends of the lapels.
