Long Sleeve Cropped Jacket with Neckline Pleats

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: low-stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; shoulder pads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve hem - 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the corresponding pieces and the hem allowances of the garment bottom and sleeves with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the shoulder and waist darts on the back pieces, press the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side, overcast.
3. Fold and stitch the pleats on the front, 4 cm from the neckline (depths directed towards the shoulder).
4. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back, overcast.
5. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Overcast the outer edge. Place the front facings with the main garment right sides together and stitch the front edge, neckline, and bottom edge. Clip allowances at corners, turn the front facings with the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams.
6. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back, overcast. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
7. Overcast the hem allowance of the garment bottom and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.