Bomber Jacket with Zippered Pockets and Chest Flaps
A women's hip-length bomber jacket with a stand collar, a separating front zip, front and back yokes and a hem band. Flaps are set into the front yoke seams, and the lower fronts have slanted pockets with exposed zips.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a sweater or blouse.
- With jeans or trousers for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose body drawn in by pleats at the hem band.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Stand collar of outer and inner layers, one of them interfaced.
Closure: Separating zip set between the front edges and the facings, running up to the collar.
Pockets: Two slanted slit pockets on the lower fronts, with the zip set under the opening so the teeth show, and lining pocket bags. Two flaps lined with lining fabric are stitched into the front yoke seams.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with a slit and a pleat at the hem, finished with a cuff fastened with one button.
Back: Cut on the fold, with a back yoke.
Finishing: Pleats at the lower edge of the fronts and back gathered into a band cut on the fold; front facings and back neckline facing interfaced.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Slit pockets with exposed zips, a separating zip set with facings and a two-layer collar, a hem band and buttoned cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Soft coating fabrics (bouclé) from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (pocket bags, flaps)
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, collar, cuffs, back neckline facing, flaps)
- 1 separating zip
- 2 zips for the pockets
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: All seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece on fold
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the Back. Overlock the seam allowance and press it upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement on the Fronts with parallel lines. Cut the opening along the centre, and 1–1.5 cm from each end of the marking cut diagonally into the corners. Turn the allowances to the wrong side through the opening and straighten the edges. Place the zip under the opening so that the teeth show and stitch it in place. Stitch the pocket bags (one Big Pocket Bag and one Smaller Pocket Bag per pocket), right side down, to the wrong side of the zip tape. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags together.
- Place the main fabric and lining Flap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch the side and lower edges. Trim the allowances, turn right side out and press.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the Front, catching the Flap in the seam. Overlock the allowances and press them upwards.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the outer Stand Collar into the neckline. Press the allowances open.
- Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders. Press the allowances open. Overlock the outer edges. Stitch the inner Stand Collar into the facing neckline. Press the allowances open.
- Fold and baste the pleats along the lower edges of the Fronts and Back. Stitch the outer layer of the Placket (hem band) to the garment. Press the allowances downwards. Stitch the Center Front Facing to the inner layer of the Placket.
- Place the facings and the inner Stand Collar on the garment right sides together, pin along the seams and stitch the front edges and the collar, catching the separating zip in the seam. Trim the allowances at the corners. Turn the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing to the wrong side and press the front edges. Turn under the upper edge of the inner Placket layer and topstitch it into the attaching seam of the outer layer. Tack the neckline allowances of the two collar layers together. Tack the facings to the garment along the shoulder seams.
- Overlock the sleeve seam edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the top down to the slit mark. Press the allowances open. Topstitch around the slit to hold the allowances.
- Fold and baste the pleat at the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold each Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short ends and the corner. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Clip the allowances at the mark. Turn the Cuff right side out and press. Stitch the outer layer of the Cuff to the sleeve, turn under the allowance of the inner layer and topstitch it into the attaching seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, press and overlock the allowances.
- Make the buttonholes and sew the buttons onto the cuffs.
