Round Neck Cropped Trimmed Jacket

Cropped Tailored Jacket with Decorative Trim and Structured Finish

A women's collarless jacket cut to the waist, with a round neckline, a wide self-fabric band along the neckline and front edges, buttoned flaps on the chest and two-piece sleeves with vents. Decorative braid is set into the band seams, the flap edges and the sleeve vents. Fully lined.

When To Wear

• For the office over a sheath dress, a pencil skirt or high-waisted trousers.
• In spring and autumn as a light jacket over a blouse or a fine knit top.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by front darts and by shoulder and waist darts on the back.

Length: Cropped, ending at the waist.

Neckline: Round, collarless; finished with a double band made of the centre front pieces and the back neckline facing, with braid caught between the layers and in the seam joining the band to the jacket.

Front: Centre front button closure, buttonholes on the right front.

Pockets: Two chest pocket flaps, edged with braid, each with a buttonhole and buttoned to the front; the flaps are stitched on, folded down and topstitched.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps, shoulder pads and sleeve heads; vents in the elbow seam with braid and buttons.

Back: Centre back seam, shoulder and waist darts.

Finishing: Hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves interfaced, 3 cm hem allowance; seams pressed open.

Lining: Full lining cut from the back, front and both sleeve pieces, attached at the jacket and sleeve hems.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Braid set into curved and cornered seams, a double band joined in two stages, two-piece sleeves with vents, a full lining and shoulder pads.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing (centre front band, back neckline facing, flaps, hem allowances)
• Decorative braid
• 10 buttons
• Shoulder pads
• Sleeve heads

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Center Front – 4 pieces
4. Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
5. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Pocket Flap – 4 pieces

From Lining Fabric:

For cutting lining, use following main patterns:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

For cutting interfacing, use the following main patterns:

1. Center Front – 2 pieces
2. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
3. Pocket Flap – 2 pieces

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to the corresponding pattern pieces and to the hem allowances of the garment and sleeves.

2. Back Assembly

Stitch the shoulder and waist darts on the Back, press the dart intake toward the center.

Stitch the center back seam, press the seam allowances open.

3. Front Darts

Stitch the darts on the Front, trim the dart intake to 1 cm, and press toward the center.

4. Pocket Flaps

Place the Pocket Flap pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along the outer contour, inserting decorative trim.

Trim seam allowances at the curves, turn right side out, and press.

Work a buttonhole on the flap, overlock the upper edge.

Attach the flap to the Front along the marked line (outer edge directed toward the shoulder).

Fold the flap downward and topstitch along the seam.

5. Shoulder and Side Seams

Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances open.

6. Sleeve Assembly

Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve), including the vent corners, inserting decorative trim.

Press the elbow seam open, make a notch, and press the sleeve vent.

Make a diagonal reinforcing stitch along the sleeve vent.

Press the sleeve hem allowance.

Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.

Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap.

Insert shoulder pads and sew sleeve heads.

7. Lining

On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves.

Press the hem of the jacket and sleeves to the wrong side, attach the lining to the hem of the jacket and sleeve hems.

Straighten the lining, secure it to the garment along the open edges, and treat as one piece.

8. Front Facing and Neckline

Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front.

Place the Center Front and facing pieces right sides together, insert decorative trim between them, and stitch along the front edge, neckline, and lower corner.

Trim seam allowances at the corners and clip at the curves.

Turn right side out, shape the seams, and press.

9. Facing Attachment

Attach the outer Center Front and Back Neckline Facing to the garment, inserting decorative trim into the seam.

Press the seam allowances toward the Center Front.

Turn the seam allowance of the inner Center Front and facing to the wrong side and topstitch in the seam of the outer part attachment.

10. Buttonholes and Buttons

Work buttonholes on the right Front, sew buttons on the left Front.

Sew buttons on the sleeve vents and on the Front under the flaps.