Fit and Flare Dress with Chiffon Sleeve Insets

Name: Fit and Flare Dress with Chiffon Sleeve Insets
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2524
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2524

An above-the-knee women's dress that flares from stitched pleats on the front and back, with a band collar tied in a bow at the back over a V-shaped back neckline. The long sleeves are two-layer: a gathered chiffon sleeve with front and back sleeve parts of the dress fabric laid over it, leaving a strip of chiffon visible down the arm. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres; chiffon for the sleeves.

Tech. Description

Fit and Flare Dress with Chiffon Sleeve Insets

When To Wear

Daytime events and dinners in spring and autumn, with tights and heeled shoes or boots.
Office wear in a plain dress fabric, the chiffon strips showing on the sleeves.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close through the bodice, flaring below from pleats stitched down to a marked point and secured with blind stitches.

Length: Above the knee.

Collar: A narrow band collar cut on the fold, set into the front neckline, with ties that bow at the back.

Sleeves: Full-length set-in sleeves: a chiffon sleeve gathered at the cap, with separate front and back sleeve parts of the main fabric, finished along their edges, gathered at the lower edge and caught together with the chiffon. Gathered into buttoned cuffs.

Front: One piece cut on the fold.

Back: Two pieces with a centre back seam, a V-shaped neckline finished with a facing, and a concealed zip.

Finishing: Interfaced cuffs and back neckline facings; hem turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Working with chiffon, layering and gathering a two-part sleeve, inserting a concealed zip, a tie collar and buttoned cuffs.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres; chiffon for the sleeves.

Additional Supplies

Chiffon (sleeves)
Fusible interfacing
Concealed zip
4 buttons

Cutter's Must

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Back - 2 pieces
Front - 1 piece on fold
Back sleeve - 2 pieces
Front sleeve - 2 pieces
Cuff - 2 pieces
Collar – 1 piece on fold
Back neckline facing - 2 pieces

From chiffon:

Sleeve - 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Cuff - 2 pieces
Back neckline facing - 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
On the front and back pieces, stitch pleats according to markings, press pleat depths open, and secure to the main garment with blind stitches.
Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
Serge the outer edge of the neckline facings. Place the neckline facing and back piece right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Fold the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure the lower to the zipper tape.
Stitch the side and shoulder seams (the front shoulder seam is longer by the seam allowance width), press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
Fold the collar in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends and ties up to the shoulder seam marks. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch the outer side of the collar to the front neckline, fold under the seam allowance of the inner side and topstitch into the seam of the outer side.
Serge the outer edges of the front and back sleeve parts, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Along the lower edge of the front and back sleeve parts, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Along the sleeve cap of the chiffon sleeve, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Place the back sleeve onto the chiffon sleeve, then the front sleeve, secure along the edges, and treat as one piece.
Serge the inner sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the mark, press seam allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press seam allowances and serge.
Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Turn the cuff right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold under the seam allowance of the inner cuff and topstitch into the seam of the outer side.
Serge the hem allowance, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
Serge buttonholes on the cuffs. Sew on buttons.