Mock Wrap Collared Long Sleeve Blouse
A hip-length women's blouse with a stitched crossover front: the fronts are edged with wide folded bands, and the left front is sewn into the right front's band, so there is no front opening. A shirt collar on a stand sits at the back neck, with a back yoke, back pleats and long sleeves with buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear
- Office wear with trousers or a pencil skirt, tucked in or worn loose.
- Under a jacket or cardigan in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, with front darts where the size requires them.
Length: Hip length, straight hem turned up and topstitched.
Collar: Two-piece collar on a two-piece stand; the stand is set into the back neckline between the blouse and a back neckline facing and caught into the front bands only from a mark to the shoulder seam.
Front: Separate right and left fronts with folded bands forming a V-neck crossover; the left front is enclosed in the right band seam, so the blouse is pulled on over the head.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with pleats at the cuff, a slit finished with a 4 cm bias binding of the main fabric, and cuffs fastened with one button each.
Back: A back yoke over a back cut on the fold, with pleats under the yoke turned towards the centre.
Finishing: Interfaced cuffs, collar, collar stand and back neckline facing; seams overlocked.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar on a stand partly set into the front bands, an enclosed crossover front, a bound sleeve slit and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Attention! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.
From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Right front – 1 piece
- Left front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Right placket — 1 piece
- Left placket – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to appropriate pieces.
- At the upper edge of the back, create and secure pleats, with depths directed towards the center. Stitch the yoke to the back. Overlock the allowance and press it upwards.
- Stitch darts on the front pieces (if provided by size). Press depths upwards.
- Fold the upper collar with the lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press.
- Left front processing: Fold the left placket in half lengthwise, right side out, and place it on the wrong side of the front. Insert the collar stand between the pieces. Stitch the pieces, attaching the collar for a small section (from the mark to the shoulder edge). End the stitching strictly at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip the collar stand allowance at the mark. Turn the placket to the right side and press. Then treat it as one piece with the front.
- Right front processing: Fold the right placket in half lengthwise, right side out, and place it on the wrong side of the right front. Insert the left front and collar stand between the pieces. Stitch the pieces, attaching the collar for a small section (from the mark to the shoulder edge). End the stitching strictly at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip the collar stand allowance at the mark. Turn the placket to the right side and press. Then treat it as one piece with the front.
- Stitch shoulder seams. End the stitching strictly at the neckline allowance. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Overlock the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Press shoulder allowances to the wrong side. Fold the facing and back right sides together and insert the collar stand, align edges and stitch the collar stand into the neckline. Start and end the stitching strictly at the shoulder seam. Turn the collar to the right side, the facing to the wrong side. Hand stitch the shoulder allowances of the facing.
- Stitch side seams. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias binding from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the binding in half lengthwise and press. Press outer allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with bias binding. Create and secure pleats on the sleeve. Depths are directed away from the closure.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock the allowance and press towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes. Overlock the allowance and press.
- Fold the cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment. Press allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the cuffs. Sew buttons onto the cuffs.
