Double-Breasted Stand-Up Collar Flared Coat

Name: Double-Breasted Stand-Up Collar Flared Coat
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2499
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2499

A knee-length women's coat with a slightly flared, princess-seamed silhouette, a double-breasted front with three buttons and an inside button, a collar cut in one with the fronts, and two-piece sleeves. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: coating fabric of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Double-Breasted Stand-Up Collar Flared Coat

When To Wear

Autumn and spring, over dresses or a skirt and knit top.
Mild winter days over trousers and a sweater.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice by front and back princess seams, widening gently towards the hem.

Length: To the knee.

Collar: Shawl-type collar cut in one with the centre fronts, joined with a seam at the centre back and set into the back neckline together with the shoulder seams; on the drawing it stands up around the neck.

Front: Double-breasted, three large buttons (two on the outer row, one on the inner) and an inside button with an inner buttonhole; a dart in the centre front piece, cut open and pressed flat.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.

Finishing: Front edges and collar topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; front facings and back neck facing interfaced.

Lining: Full lining with two-piece lining sleeves, cut from the main pieces minus the facings; the coat is turned through an opening in the right sleeve lining seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, a collar cut in one with the front and joined at the back, two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and bagged full lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Coating fabric of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing)
3 large buttons
1 inside button
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Front facing – 2 pieces

From lining fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: center front, back neckline facing, front facing.

Attention: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
On the back, stitch the darts. Press the dart allowances towards the center. On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam. Press the allowances open.
Stitch the dart on the center front. Cut the dart in half lengthwise and press open. Stitch the front princess seams. Press the allowances open.
Stitch and press open the side seams of the coat. Clip the allowance at the corner near the shoulder seam. Stitch the collar seam. Press the allowance open. Stitch the shoulder seams, simultaneously inserting the collar into the neckline.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing, clipping the allowances at the corners. Stitch the collar seam on the front facings. Press the allowances open. Insert the collar into the neckline. Press the allowances open. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge and bottom. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Secure the allowances of the outer and inner collars together. Close the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the edge and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.
Work buttonholes on the right front. Sew buttons to the left front. Work the inner buttonhole. Sew on the inner button.