Stand Collar V-Neck Pinafore
A women's sleeveless fitted dress with a stand collar at a deep V-neckline, a separate interfaced waistband fastened with two buttons over a front extension, and a lower front with a centre front zip under a fly.
When To Wear
- At the office in warm weather, or over a thin blouse or fine knit in cooler months.
- For daytime events with a jacket over it.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice and straight, narrow skirt joined by a waistband, knee length.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar set between the garment and the facings at a deep V-neckline.
Sleeves: Sleeveless, with the shoulders extended over the top of the arm; armholes finished with a 4 cm bias binding turned to the inside and topstitched.
Front: Upper front in two pieces with a pleat on each side, finished with front facings; lower front in two pieces with darts and a centre front seam.
Closure: Zip in the lower centre front with a cut-on facing, a fly shield and a topstitching line on the right, bar-tacked at the end; the right front waistband has an extension with two buttons and buttonholes.
Back: Upper and lower back each in two pieces with darts and a centre back seam; one-piece back waistband.
Waist: Interfaced waistband in three pieces (back, right front, left front), topstitched 0.5 cm from the upper edge.
Finishing: Hem turned up 3 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A stand collar caught between garment and facing, a fly-front zip with a fly shield, a waistband with an extension and bias-bound armholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, collar stand, all waistband pieces)
- Zip
- 2 buttons
- Bias binding, 4 cm wide, for the armholes (or cut from the main fabric)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Back waistband – 1 piece
- Upper front - 2 pieces
- Right front waistband – 1 piece
- Left front waistband - 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Right front waistband – 1 piece
- Left front waistband - 1 piece
- Back waistband – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the upper and lower back parts. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the center edges of the upper and lower back parts. Serge seam allowances and press to the left side.
- On the upper front, create and secure the pleat. Stitch the dart on the lower front. Press seam allowance towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder seams. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length of the back and front + 4cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch. Clip seam allowances. Turn the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam. Ready-made binding can also be used.
- Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the corners and upper edge. Trim seam allowances, clip curves. Turn the collar stand right side out and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing. Press seam allowance open. Serge the outer edge. Place the front facing and neckline facing onto the main garment and stitch the front edge and neckline, inserting the collar stand. Trim seam allowances, turn the facings to the wrong side and press. Secure the front facings to the shoulder seams with hand stitches.
- Stitch side seams of waistbands. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back. Serge the short center edges of the front waistbands.
- Trim the integrated facing from the left lower front. Serge the center edges of the lower center front separately. Stitch the center edge of the lower parts, starting the seam at the edge of the integrated facing. Press the integrated zipper facing to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left and stitch. Stitch the free zipper tape to the integrated facing of the right. Topstitch along the marked line on the right. Fold the front facing in half lengthwise, wrong side in, and serge the long and short bottom edges. Stitch the front facing to the zipper attachment seam of the left. Place a bar tack at the end of the zipper on the right side of the skirt. On the wrong side, connect the lower ends of the integrated facing and the front facing.
- Stitch side seams of lower parts. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Fold the waistband and upper of the dress right sides together. On the right waistband, create an extension by inserting the front and front facing between the outer and inner sides of the waistband. Stitch the waistband. On the left side, finish without an extension. Serge seam allowance and press towards the waistband. Topstitch the seam allowance to the waistband 0.5 cm from the upper edge of the waistband.
- Stitch side seams of lower parts. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the lower of the dress to the waistband, inserting the lower into the waistband similarly to the upper. Serge seam allowance and press towards the waistband.
- Serge buttonholes and sew on buttons.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
