Sleeveless Asymmetrical Pleated Dress
A women's sleeveless A-line dress above the knee, with princess seams and a diagonal front band. Below the band, a fan of pleated fabric shows through an opening in the lower front.
When To Wear
- In summer on its own, or in spring and autumn over a thin long-sleeved top.
- For daytime parties and events; the pleated insert is the only trim, so plain shoes and accessories suit it.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice, widening to an A-line skirt.
Length: Above the knee.
Neckline: Round neckline, finished with an all-in-one facing together with the armholes.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; the armholes are faced in two steps, back first, then front.
Front: Upper centre front with right and left upper side fronts joined by princess seams. A middle front piece forms a diagonal band from one side down to the hem on the other, with a lower front piece below it. The front edge of the lower front and the lower edge of the band are each finished with an interfaced facing, and the pleated insert is stitched to the inner edges of those facings.
Back: Centre back and side back pieces joined by princess seams, with a concealed zipper in the centre back seam.
Finishing: Dress hem allowance 2.5 cm, sewn with blind stitches; the insert hem is turned up 1 cm and topstitched, or finished with a narrow rolled hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. An asymmetric front with faced edges and a pleated insert set behind them, an all-in-one neck and armhole facing, princess seams and a concealed zipper.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres. Pleated fabric for the insert.
Additional Supplies
- Pleated fabric (insert)
- Fusible interfacing (neck and armhole facings, bottom facings)
- Concealed zipper
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center back - 2 pieces
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Upper center front – 1 piece
- Upper side front right - 1 piece
- Upper side front left - 1 piece
- Middle front - 1 piece
- Lower front - 1 piece
- Bottom facing_1 - 1 piece
- Bottom facing_2 - 1 piece
- Back facing - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 1 piece
- From main fabric 1:
- From fusible interfacing:
- Bottom facing_1 - 1 piece
- Bottom facing_2 - 1 piece
- Back facing - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge.
- Serge the hem allowance of the insert, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Alternatively, it can be finished with a narrow rolled hem. In this case, the hem allowance should be trimmed.
- Place bottom facing 1 with the lower front right sides together and stitch the front edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Attach the insert to the inner edge of facing 1 (the insert edge is shorter than the facing edge by the width of the hem allowance), press allowances, and serge.
- Place bottom facing 2 with the middle front right sides together and stitch the bottom edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Attach the insert with the lower front to the inner edge of facing 2 (the insert edge is shorter than the facing edge by the width of the hem allowance), press allowances, and serge.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the front and back facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the back armhole, then the front armhole. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure to the main garment at the side seams and zipper tape.
- Serge the bottom edge of the dress, stitch the bottom corners, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Also, attach the inner edges of bottom facings 1 and 2 to the main garment with blind stitches.
