Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Contrast or analogous colors for trim fabric. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 4 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back part - 2 pieces
- Upper side back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper center front part - 2 pieces
- Upper side front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From main fabric 1:
- Collar – 4 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing. Also interface the slit allowance on the lower back part.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center, overcast. Stitch darts on the lower back parts, press depths towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the slit mark, press allowances open. Lay a reinforcing stitch along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch darts on the upper and lower front parts, press depths towards the center. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center, overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facings, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge.
- Fold collar pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn collars right side out, shape, press. Stitch collar into neckline.
- Place front facings with the garment right sides together and stitch along the front edges and the neckline edge of the back and front (collar is positioned between the pieces). Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn front facings with facing to the wrong side, shape, press. Secure to the garment at shoulder seams and zipper tape. Overlap the right front edge over the left and secure at the lower edge.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances downwards and overcast.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Along the sleeve cap, lay a stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overcast.
- Stitch cuff into a ring, press allowances open. Fold cuff in half lengthwise right side out and press. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, lay a stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner cuff inwards and stitch into the seam of the upper cuff attachment.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Overcast buttonholes on the right front. Sew buttons on the left front.
