Cropped Denim Blazer
A women's cropped jacket ending at the waist, with a notched collar and lapels, short sleeves gathered at the cap and a panelled waistband that fastens with two buttons. The upper front is gathered into the waistband.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer over a dress or a camisole.
- With high-waisted trousers or skirts.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, cropped at the waist.
Collar: Two-piece notched collar with lapels; under collar sewn to the neckline, upper collar to the facings. Front edges, lapels and collar topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves gathered at the cap, hem topstitched 1 cm from the edge.
Front: Upper front gathered along the lower edge between marks and sewn to the waistband; interfaced front facings.
Closure: 2 buttons with buttonholes on the front waistband.
Waist: Waistband pieced from centre and side sections front and back; seams topstitched 0.5 cm, upper edge topstitched 0.5 cm and lower edge 1 cm.
Back: Centre back seam and darts, joined to the back waistband.
Finishing: Unlined; seams overlocked, back neck finished with an interfaced facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, gathers into a pieced waistband, gathered sleeve caps and edge topstitching.
Fabric Recommendations
Dense dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres with elastane; denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, back neckline facing)
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance – 1.5 cm, sleeve hem – 2 cm, other seams 1 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Center Back Waistband – 2 pieces
- Side Back Waistband – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Waistband – 2 pieces
- Side Front Waistband – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Collar, Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
- Stitch the darts on the Back pieces, press them towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowance to the left and serge.
- Stitch the Center Back Waistband and Side Back Waistband pieces together, press allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seams. Stitch the back waistband to the Back, press the allowance onto the waistband and serge.
- Along the lower edge of the Upper Front, between the marks, sew a gathering stitch (loosened upper thread) and gather.
- Stitch the Center Front Waistband and Side Front Waistband pieces together, press allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seams. Stitch the front waistband to the Upper Front, press allowances onto the waistband and serge.
- Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim allowances at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams of the garment, press allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Serge the outer edge.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn front edges right side out, shape seams.
- Stitch the under collar to the garment neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Clip collar attachment seam allowances, press open and secure close to the seams. Topstitch along the edge of the front, lapel, and collar at 0.5 cm.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge. Topstitch along the upper edge of the waistband at 0.5 cm.
- Along the sleeve cap, sew a gathering stitch (loosened upper thread) and gather. Stitch sleeve seam, press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Topstitch along the bottom edge of the waistband and sleeve at 1 cm.
- Work buttonholes on the right front waistband. Sew the buttons onto the left front waistband.
