Ruffled Stand Collar Yoke Blouse
A hip-length women's blouse with a V-shaped front yoke and gathers below it, a stand collar with a gathered flounce along its top edge, and long sleeves gathered into buttoned cuffs. It opens at the back neck through a bound slit closed with a button and loop.
When To Wear
- For the office, with straight trousers or a pencil skirt.
- In autumn and winter under a cardigan or pinafore dress, with the ruffled collar showing.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose, straight body with fullness from the front gathers.
Length: To the hip, straight hem turned twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Collar: Interfaced stand collar with a folded, gathered flounce set into its upper edge.
Front: Front yoke with a V-shaped lower edge; the front below is gathered into the yoke seam. Front and yoke are each cut on the fold.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with a centre back slit bound with a bias strip; a rouleau loop in the stand and one button close it.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves, gathered at the wrist into interfaced cuffs with one button each; a short opening in the sleeve seam, topstitched 0.1 cm from the fold.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A bound slit opening, gathers into a yoke, a stand collar with an inserted flounce and loop, sleeve openings and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (one stand collar piece, cuffs)
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- Front Yoke – 1 piece on fold
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Flounce – 1 piece
- Back slit binding – 1 bias strip, 5 cm wide, twice the slit length + 4 cm (cut by measurement)
- Button loop – 1 bias strip, 2.5 × 10 cm (cut by measurement)
- From fusible interfacing:
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to one Stand Collar piece and the Cuffs.
- Press the back slit binding lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Mark the slit line on the Back and cut it. Spread the slit open into a straight line, place the binding on the right side, aligning the raw edges, and stitch. The seam allowance along the slit length is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the binding to the wrong side, wrapping it around the seam, and stitch it in the ditch of the seam.
- Along the upper edge of the Front, sew a line of long stitches with loosened upper thread tension and pull up the gathers. Stitch the Front Yoke to the Front, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold the button loop strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Adjust the loop length.
- Fold the Flounce lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short ends. Turn it right side out, shape, and press. Sew a line of long stitches along the raw (lower) edge and pull up the gathers.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge and ends, sandwiching the Flounce and the loop between them, starting and ending the stitching precisely at the collar stand attachment line. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the collar stand right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch the outer collar to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the inner collar and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Along the lower edge of the Sleeve, sew a line of long stitches and pull up the gathers. Overlock the sleeve seam edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the opening mark, press seam allowances open. Topstitch the opening edges 0.1 cm from the fold. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overlock.
- Fold each Cuff right sides together and stitch the short ends. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer cuff to the sleeve, fold under the seam allowance of the inner cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
- Press the hem of the garment to the wrong side twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the cuffs and sew on the buttons. Sew a button onto the stand collar opposite the loop.
