Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics with elastane content from natural or blended fibers. Knitted fabrics with low stretch from natural or blended fibers. ALSO, YOU WILL NEED: fusible interlining. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bias cut of the lower front part – 2.5 cm, hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front part - 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interlining:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Tip: Cut pieces from knitted fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When overlocking, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the lower back parts, press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the center seam of the lower back part, press seam allowances to the left side and overlock.
- Along the lower edge of the upper back part, make a basting stitch with loosened tension and gather. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
- Overlock the bias cut of the lower front part, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Overlap the right part onto the left and secure along the upper and side edges. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch shoulder seams of facings, press seam allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the dress with the facing right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise with the right side out. Attach the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve, overlock seam allowances. Turn the cuff to the right side.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening on the long side for turning. Turn the belt right side out, straighten and press. Topstitch the belt around the perimeter 0.1 cm from the edge.
