Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 12 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke - 1 piece
  • Center back - 1 piece on fold
  • Side back - 2 pieces
  • Back peplum - 2 pieces
  • Center front - 2 pieces
  • Side front - 2 pieces
  • Front peplum - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff — 4 pieces
  • Sleeve placket — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Sleeve placket — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Lay and secure pleats on the back peplum (pleat depths pressed towards the center). Stitch the side back and back peplum, press seam allowances up and overcast.
3. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast. Attach the yoke to the back, press seam allowances up and overcast.
4. Right front: Press the front inward to the wrong side along the "front edge" and "concealed placket edge" lines. Topstitch along the inner edge of the placket at a distance of 3 cm from the front edge. Fold the inner part of the placket towards the front edge. Press, overcast buttonholes. Left front: Add a 1 cm allowance to the "inner placket edge" line, trim the rest. Press the placket inward by 1 cm, then along the "front edge" line and topstitch along the inner edge of the placket.
5. Lay and secure pleats on the front peplum (pleat depths pressed towards the center). Stitch the side front and front peplum, press seam allowances up and overcast. Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast.
6. Attach the yoke to the front, press seam allowances towards the yoke and overcast.
7. Fold the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams, clip corners. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the stand. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked seam line of the collar stand attachment. Turn the prepared collar right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the lower stand and topstitch into the seam of the upper stand attachment.
8. Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Sleeve placket processing: Cut the sleeve along the marked line, clipping the corner at the top of the slit. Turn under the section from the slit to the marked line, equal to 1.7 cm, twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold the placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the corner up to the transverse mark. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, clip the allowance at the end of the stitching. Turn the placket right side out, press and topstitch along the fold line from the bottom to the transverse mark at 0.1 cm. Fold the placket with the sleeve right sides together and stitch the inner side along the marked line. Clip the sleeve at the end of the stitching transversely from the slit to the attachment line. Fold the placket to the right side, turn under the open edge and stitch. Align the placket with the marked line on the sleeve and topstitch the upper corner along the contour and along the transverse mark.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Lay and secure pleats at the bottom of the sleeve.
11. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
12. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short sides and the step. Start stitching strictly at the marked line of cuff attachment to the sleeve. At the mark, clip the allowances, turn the cuff right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam.
13. Turn under the hem of the garment inward by 1 cm, then another 1 cm and topstitch.
14. Overcast buttonhole on the collar stand. Overcast buttonholes on the cuffs. Sew buttons onto the left front corresponding to the buttonholes. Sew buttons onto the cuffs.