Panelled Piped Balloon Sleeve Blouse with Stand Collar

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 3 buttons; inserted piping (approximate length indicated on the front pattern piece).

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front lower sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Cut a bias strip for finishing the back slit, equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm, and 5 cm wide. Press the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out. Mark the slit line on the back, cut it. Lay the back flat along the slit line, place the bias strip right side down, aligning the raw edges, and stitch. The seam allowance along the slit length is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, enclosing the seam, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
3. Stitch the bust darts, press the fullness upwards.
4. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
5. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the rouleau loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and shape the rouleau. Adjust the loop length.
6. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together. Stitch the short sides, inserting the loop, and the upper edge, ending the stitching precisely at the collar stand attachment line. Clip allowances, trim corners, turn the collar stand right side out, and press. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, press allowances towards the collar stand. Fold under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
7. Stitch the upper sleeve pieces, inserting the piping. Serge the allowance. Stitch the lower pieces to the sleeve, inserting the piping. Serge the allowances. Stitch the piping to the front sleeve piece. Serge sleeve allowances separately. Stitch the sleeve seam up to the slit mark, press allowances open. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit 0.5 cm from the edge.
8. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Trim allowances, turn the cuff right side out and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold under the allowance of the inner side and topstitch.
9. Press the hem of the garment to the wrong side by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
10. Make buttonholes and sew buttons onto the collar stand and cuffs.