Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; shoulder pads.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the back neck facing and front facing.
- Back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the corresponding pieces and the allowances of the bottom edges of the garment and sleeves. Also, apply fusible stay tape along the armhole edges.
- Stitch the shoulder and waist darts on the back pieces, press the dart folds towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neck facing and front facings. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the lining to the facing and front facing, press allowances towards the front facing.
- Place the jacket and lining right sides together, pin, aligning the outer edges. Stitch the front edge, neckline, and bottom edge, clip allowances at curves, trim corners. Turn the jacket right side out through the technical opening. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Close the technical opening.
