Pleated Yoke Blouse With Front Pleats

Name: Pleated Yoke Blouse With Front Pleats
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2196
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2196

A loose, hip-length women's blouse with two pleated front yokes crossed right over left at the centre, pleats on the front below them, and short set-in sleeves gathered at the cap. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fine blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Pleated Yoke Blouse With Front Pleats

A loose, hip-length women's blouse with two pleated front yokes crossed right over left at the centre, pleats on the front below them, and short set-in sleeves gathered at the cap.

When To Wear

In summer with skirts, shorts or trousers.
For work under a cardigan or jacket, the crossed yokes showing at the neck.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Loose and straight, pulled on over the head with no closure.

Neckline: Round neck finished with a 4 cm bias strip folded in half, turned to the inside and topstitched.

Front: Two yokes, each with pleats turned towards the shoulder and a hemmed lower edge, overlap at the centre front and are laid over the front, so the lower yoke edges stay free. The front, cut on the fold, has pleats turned towards the side seams.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with gathers along the top of the cap.

Back: One piece cut on the fold, with no seams or darts.

Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem and sleeve edges overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleats on layered yokes that must line up at the centre, a bias-bound neckline and gathered set-in sleeves.

Fabric Recommendations

Fine blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

None besides fabric and thread; the neckline bias strip is cut from the main fabric.

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2 cm, hem allowance for the sleeve bottom – 1.2 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Overlock the bottom edge of the front yokes, press towards the wrong side and topstitch. Form and secure the pleats on the yokes (depths directed towards the shoulder edge). Place the right yoke over the left, aligning the center lines, and secure along the neckline edge.
Form and secure the pleats on the front (depths directed towards the side edge). Place the yoke on the front, wrong side to right side, and secure along the free edges.
Stitch the right shoulder seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the neckline edge, right side, extending the tails, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip allowances, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
Stitch the left shoulder seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the side seams of the blouse, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Along the upper of the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and overlock.
Overlock the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press towards the wrong side and topstitch.