Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Back insert – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front insert – 1 piece
  • Upper front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Tie – 4 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the darts on the upper back piece, press the dart folds towards the center. Lay and stitch the pleats on the back insert according to the markings (folds directed outwards downwards). Attach the back insert to the upper back piece, press the seam allowances towards the insert and overcast.
3. Along the upper edge of the lower back piece, lay and secure the pleats (folds directed towards the side seam). Attach the lower back piece to the back insert, press the seam allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Overcast the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press the seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
5. Along the lower edge of the upper front piece, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the front insert to the upper front piece, press the seam allowances towards the insert and overcast.
6. Along the upper edge of the lower front piece, lay and secure the pleats (folds directed towards the side seam). Attach the lower front piece to the front insert, press the seam allowances upwards and overcast.
7. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press the seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten and press. Secure the facing to the zipper tape and shoulder seam allowances.
9. Fold the tie lengthwise in half right sides together and stitch along the long and one short side. Turn the tie right side out, straighten and press.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, inserting the ties, press the seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
11. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches, press the seam allowances and overcast.
12. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side by 1 cm, then another 1 cm and topstitch.