Tailored Stand Collar Cuffed Blouse
A women's hip-length pullover blouse with a stand collar, a stitched-down pleat running the full length of the centre front, and long set-in sleeves gathered into buttoned cuffs. It opens at the back neck through a bound slit closed with a rouleau loop and a button.
When To Wear
- At the office with trousers or a pencil skirt, or under a sleeveless dress or pinafore.
- In autumn and spring under a jacket or a cardigan.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted with bust darts, slightly widening towards the hem.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Interfaced stand collar in two halves that meet at the back slit; at the front, the top of the pleat wraps around the front ends of the stand.
Front: One piece cut on the fold, with a pleat stitched along the centre front line on the right side and its depth pressed evenly to both sides. No front opening.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves gathered at the lower edge, with a topstitched opening in the sleeve seam and interfaced cuffs closing with buttons.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with a neck slit bound with a bias strip and a bias rouleau loop at the top of the stand.
Finishing: Hem turned under twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A bound slit, a rouleau loop, a two-part stand collar finished into a stitched pleat, sleeve openings and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (stand collar, cuffs)
- 5 buttons
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- Stand Collar – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to two Stand Collar pieces and two Cuff pieces.
- Stitch the bust darts and press the dart intakes upwards.
- Cut a bias strip for binding the back slit, 5 cm wide and twice the slit length + 4 cm long. Press it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Mark the slit line on the Back and cut it open. Spread the Back open along the slit into a straight line, place the binding on the right side with the raw edges matching and stitch. The seam is 0.5–0.7 cm wide along the slit and narrows to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Turn the binding to the wrong side around the seam and stitch it in the ditch of the attachment seam.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- For the button loop, cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 5 cm long. Fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Adjust the length of the loop.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and the back edge, inserting the loop on the left side; start and end the stitching exactly at the collar attachment line. Clip the seam allowances on the curves, trim the corners, turn the Stand Collar right side out and press. Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the neckline, clipping the seam allowance at the front corner; turn under the raw edge of the inner Stand Collar and topstitch it over the attachment seam.
- Fold the Front along the center line, wrong sides together, and stitch the pleat. Spread the pleat intake evenly to both sides and press. Overlock the front edge of the Stand Collar together with the vertical edge of the pleat. Overlock the upper edge. Wrap the top of the pleat around the Stand Collar and secure it to the collar attachment seam.
- Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Sew a line of gathering stitches along the lower edge of the Sleeve and gather. Overlock the sleeve seam edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark and press the seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the seam allowances and overlock.
- Place the Cuff pieces right sides together and stitch the side and lower edges, starting and ending exactly at the marked cuff attachment line. Turn the Cuff right side out and press. Stitch the outer Cuff to the Sleeve, turn under the seam allowance of the inner Cuff and topstitch it over the attachment seam of the outer Cuff.
- Press the hem of the blouse to the wrong side twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the Cuffs and sew on the buttons. Sew a button on the Stand Collar.
