Jacket with Patch Pockets
A fully lined, single-breasted women's jacket reaching below the hip, with a notched collar, princess seams front and back, gathered-in three-quarter sleeves finished with deep cuffs, and two patch pockets with flaps. A belt with a buckle passes through loops at the side seams.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light outer layer over shirts and fine knits.
- At the office with slim trousers or a pencil skirt, belted at the waist.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the waist by princess seams on the front and back; the belt draws it in further.
Length: Below the hip.
Collar: Notched collar with an under collar and an interfaced upper collar; the lapel roll line is stayed with 1 cm fusible tape.
Sleeves: Set-in three-quarter sleeves, pleated into folded cuffs at the hem.
Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons with buttonholes on the right front.
Pockets: Patch pockets with a placket band around the sides and bottom, covered by flaps topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge; the cutting list also has one sewn-on welt.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Waist: Interfaced belt topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, with a buckle, held by two loops at the side seams.
Finishing: Front edge seam allowance stitched down 0.2 cm from the seam; hem allowance 2.5 cm.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, cut from the main pattern minus the front facings and back neck facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A lined jacket with a notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, flapped patch pockets, cuffs attached after bagging the lining, buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, welt, flaps, belt, roll-line tape)
- 4 buttons
- Buckle
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2.5 cm. Allowance for the top edge of the pocket – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Fronts, Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, Off-Set Welt, two Flap pieces and the Waistband. On the Center Front, along the lapel roll line, fuse a 1 cm wide stay tape cut from fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back) and press the seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam and press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front) and press the seam allowances open.
- Fold the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short ends. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the welt right side out and press. Place the welt on the front along the lower marked line (fold pointing down) and stitch. Fold the welt up, press, and topstitch its sides to the front.
- Stitch the Pocket Placket to the Pocket along the sides and lower edge and overlock the seam allowance. Overlock the long free edge of the Pocket Placket. Turn the top allowance of the Pocket and Pocket Placket twice to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the side and lower allowances of the Pocket Placket to the wrong side. Place the pockets on the front following the markings and topstitch. Place the Flap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch. Trim the corner allowances, turn the flaps right side out, straighten the seams and press. Topstitch the flaps 0.2 cm from the edge. Stitch the flaps to the front, fold them down and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams and press them open.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings and press them open.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the Center Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, upwards to the notch marking the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seam allowances at the corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: onto the Center Front Facing along the buttoned opening, and onto the Center Front along the lapels. Turn the front edges right side out and shape the seams.
- Stitch the Lower Collar to the jacket neckline, and the Upper Collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Press the collar seam allowances open and secure them to each other close to the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam and press the seam allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Overlock one long edge of the Belt-Loop. Fold it in three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut it into 2 loops. Topstitch the loops onto the jacket at the side seams.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces and set in the lining sleeves.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Stitch the lining to the lower edge of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through a sleeve. Fold and secure the pleats at the lower edge of the sleeve. Stitch the Cuff into a ring and press the seam allowances open. Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise and press. Stitch the outer half of the Cuff to the sleeve, with the seam allowances turned towards the cuff. Turn under the allowance of the inner half and stitch it into the attachment seam.
- Fold the Waistband (the belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch around the edges, leaving an opening. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out and press. Close the opening. Topstitch around the edges 0.5 cm from the edge. Attach the buckle to the end of the belt.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front.
