Snap Front Utility Jacket with Drawstring
A women's unlined hip-length utility jacket with a stand collar, a snap-fastened front placket running up to the top of the collar, front and back yokes, panel seams, a drawstring waist and two patch pockets with snap flaps. Seams are topstitched 0.5 cm.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over T-shirts, shirts and knitwear.
- With jeans or trousers for everyday wear and travel.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, gathered in at the waist by the drawstring.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Two-layer stand collar, topstitched along the edges.
Closure: Separate placket made of an upper and a lower part joined by a seam, set onto the front edge and fastened with six snaps; the top snap sits on the collar.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with a slit at the hem of the elbow seam and a cuff with an extension, fastened with one snap.
Front: Front yoke and a vertical panel seam on each side from the yoke to the hem.
Pockets: Two patch pockets below the waist, each under a two-layer flap fastened with two snaps.
Back: Back yoke in one piece, centre back seam and two panel seams.
Waist: Casing stitched to the wrong side at the waist; the drawstring is threaded through it and finished with two eyelets.
Finishing: Panel and yoke seams, collar, placket, cuff, pocket and flap edges topstitched 0.5 cm; hem turned 1 cm and 2 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many pieces with topstitched panel and yoke seams, a stand collar, a separate front placket, two-piece sleeves with slits and cuffs, setting snaps and eyelets.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat, jacket or denim fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- 12 snaps (6 for the placket, 4 for the pocket flaps, 2 for the cuffs)
- Drawstring
- 2 eyelets
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; bottom hem allowance – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Placket – 2 pieces
- Upper Placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Casing – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- On the back, stitch the panel seams (Center Back to Side Back). Overlock allowances and press towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock allowance and press to the left side. Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Overlock allowance, press upwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Side Front to the Center Front. Overlock allowances and press towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Overlock allowance, press towards the yoke and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim allowances, turn the flap right side out and press. Overlock the open edge. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Overlock the Pocket along the edges. Fold the top edge inwards and topstitch. Press the side and bottom allowances of the pocket to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the front and topstitch. Stitch the Flap to the front above the pocket, turn it down and topstitch. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Fold the long allowances of the Casing inwards and press. Fold the allowances on the short ends of the Casing inwards and topstitch. Topstitch the Casing to the wrong side of the jacket according to the markings.
- Overlock the elbow seam edges of the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve separately. Stitch the elbow seam up to the slit mark. Stitch the front sleeve seam, overlock the allowances and press them towards the Upper Sleeve. Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the ends and the extension. Trim allowances, turn right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch along the cuff contour 0.5 cm from the edge. Set the sleeves into the armhole.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Turn the Stand Collar right side out and press. Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the neckline of the jacket. Fold the allowance of the inner Stand Collar inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the Upper Placket to the Lower Placket. Press the allowance upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Fold the placket lengthwise right sides together and stitch the upper and lower edges, starting and ending stitches strictly at the marked attachment line to the front edge. Trim allowances at the corners, turn the piece right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the placket to the front edge, direct the allowance towards the placket. Fold the inner edge of the placket inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Press the bottom hem 1 cm, then 2 cm and topstitch.
- Topstitch along the edges of the Stand Collar and the placket.
- Attach snaps to the placket, cuffs and flaps.
- Set the eyelets and thread the drawstring through the casing.
