Women's Stand Collar Coat
A women's straight coat at mid-thigh length with a stand collar cut in one with the fronts and back yoke, a concealed button placket, curved front panel seams with pockets set into them, and two-piece sleeves. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over knitwear, shirts and dresses.
- Over office clothing: the concealed placket keeps the front plain.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, semi-fitted coat.
Length: Mid-thigh, with rounded lower front corners.
Collar: Stand collar cut in one with the centre fronts and the back yoke, joined by a centre back collar seam; the facing side is cut the same way from the front facings and back neckline facing.
Front: Centre front and side front panels joined by a curved seam running from the shoulder area down towards the hem.
Closure: Concealed button placket: the buttonholes are worked through the right front facing and a framed placket lining, with bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes; buttons on the left front.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the lower part of the curved front seams, with lining-fabric pocket bags.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams; shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
Back: Centre back seam and a back yoke whose seams run from the collar to the armholes.
Finishing: Front edges and collar topstitched 0.5–0.7 cm from the edge.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the right lining sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A concealed placket built from two lining strips with a cut-and-turned frame, a collar cut in one with the body and set with clipped corners, in-seam pockets, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads, a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight coating that presses well, such as wool or wool-blend coating, boiled wool or heavy twill. A smooth lining fabric for the lining, sleeves and pocket bags.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neckline facing, placket lining)
- Buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: All seams - 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Hidden Button Placket Lining – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Hidden Button Placket Lining – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Try to observe the grain line direction.
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the Back Yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke.
- Place the Pocket Bag on the Center Front, right sides together, and stitch around the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, press.
- Place the Center Front onto the Side Front and stitch the style seams together with the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances open. Stitch the centre back seam of the grown-on collar, press allowances open. Stitch the collar to the back neckline, clipping the allowance into the corner. Clip and press the allowances open.
- Mark the hidden placket opening with three lines on the right side of the right Center Front Facing: the first line is parallel to the front edge and 1.5 cm from the finished front edge; the second and third lines define the length of the opening. Place the interfaced Hidden Button Placket Lining on the right side of the facing, right side down, pointing away from the front edge, aligning its edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the opening up to the lines defining its length. Place the second Hidden Button Placket Lining flush with the first lining's stitching line and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the hole. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from each end of the opening. Turn the linings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced lining equal to the width between the stitches. Stitch a securing seam into the lining attachment seam. Press the second lining towards the inner edge of the front facing and stitch a securing seam 0.1 cm from the lining attachment seam. Mark and make the buttonholes through the facing together with the interfaced placket lining. Straighten and secure the ends of the opening from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the edges of the placket linings together. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack equals the width of the frame. Press the front facing.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing, press allowances open. Stitch the centre back seam of the facings' grown-on collar, press allowances open. Stitch the collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing, clipping the allowance into the corner. Clip and press allowances open.
- Place the Center Front Facings on the garment, right sides together, and stitch the front edges, collar edge, and lower front corner. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces right side out. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Attach shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press lining allowances.
- Stitch the lining to the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams.
- Mark and press the lower hem allowance to the wrong side. Finish the lower hem with the lining. Turn the garment right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Finish the lower sleeve hem with the lining. Stitch the opening in the lining sleeve closed.
- Sew buttons onto the left front piece.
