Open front Shawl Collar Blazer with three quarter sleeves and Shaped Hem

Name: Open front Shawl Collar Blazer with three quarter sleeves and Shaped Hem
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2085
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2085

A short women's jacket with a shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, an open front without fastening, princess seams front and back, three-quarter sleeves and a hem that drops to points at the front edges and at the centre back. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: medium-weight suiting or jacket fabric that holds a pressed edge, such as wool or wool-blend suiting, gabardine or heavier crepe.

Tech. Description

Open Front Shawl Collar Blazer with Three-Quarter Sleeves and Shaped Hem

When To Wear

Over a dress or a fitted top with trousers or a pencil skirt, for work or evening.
In spring and autumn as a light layer over a sheath dress.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams from the armholes on the front and the back.

Length: Short, about waist to high-hip length at the sides, longer at the front points.

Collar: Shawl collar cut in one with the centre fronts and joined by a centre back seam; the under side is cut in one with the front facings.

Front: Open front, edge to edge, with interfaced centre fronts and facings.

Sleeves: Three-quarter-length one-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap; shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; the hem forms two points at the centre back.

Finishing: Hem and sleeve hem allowances interfaced.

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, cut from the main pattern pieces minus the facings, bagged out through an opening in the left lining sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A grown-on shawl collar set into the back neckline with clipped corners, shaped hem points, set-in sleeves with shoulder pads, a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Medium-weight suiting or jacket fabric that holds a pressed edge, such as wool or wool-blend suiting, gabardine or heavier crepe. A smooth lining fabric for the lining.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neckline facing, hem and sleeve hem allowances)
Shoulder pads
Sleeve head rolls

Cutter's Must

Attention: The front and back pieces of the lining are cut according to the main fabric patterns, minus the width of the Center Front Facing and the Back Neckline Facing, respectively.

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Also, fuse interfacing to the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve hem.
Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center.
Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center.
Stitch and press open the side seams of the jacket.
Stitch the center back seam of the collar (cut in one with the Center Front), press seam allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams. Stitch the collar to the back neckline, clipping the seam allowance at the corner. Clip and press open the seam allowances.
Stitch the center back seam of the collar cut in one with the Center Front Facing, press seam allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facing. Stitch the facing collar to the Back Neckline Facing, clipping the seam allowance at the corner. Clip and press open the seam allowances. Place the facings and the jacket right sides together and stitch along the front edges and collar. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the front edges right side out, roll the seams into place and press. Tack the neckline seam allowances of the jacket and facing together.
Stitch and press open the sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, and sew in sleeve head rolls.
On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the seam of the left sleeve. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing. Press the bottom hem of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Close the opening.