Open Front Coat with Small Notched Collar

Name: Open Front Coat with Small Notched Collar
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2076
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2076

An unlined women's coat with an open front and no fastening, a small collar with narrow lapels, side bust darts and a seam dividing the body: slanted at the front, horizontal at the back. The front edges are finished with wide facings. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: medium-weight coating and jacket fabrics that do not fray much, since the coat is unlined: boiled wool, bouclé, wool blends, tweed.

Tech. Description

Open Front Coat with Small Notched Collar

When To Wear

In spring and early autumn as a light coat over dresses, or over trousers and a knit top.
Indoors as a long open jacket in place of a blazer.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, open front edges that do not overlap.

Length: Mid-thigh.

Collar: Two-layer collar with rounded seams clipped; the under collar is set into the coat neckline, the upper collar into the facings and back neck facing.

Front: Upper front with a side bust dart pressed upwards, joined to the lower front by a seam that slants down towards the side. The facing is stitched to the front edge, the lower corner is stitched and turned, and the facing is tacked to the seam between the upper and lower front.

Sleeves: Long, one-piece, set-in.

Back: Upper and lower back, each cut on the fold, joined by a horizontal seam pressed upwards.

Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem and sleeve hems turned and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A collar set between the coat and its facings and a front facing tacked to the body seam; otherwise straight seams and darts, no lining, no buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Medium-weight coating and jacket fabrics that do not fray much, since the coat is unlined: boiled wool, bouclé, wool blends, tweed.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: All seams - 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.

From main fabric:
- Upper back - 1 piece on fold
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper front - 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece on fold
- Under collar – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Try to observe the grain line direction.

Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
Stitch darts on the upper front parts, press depths upwards. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Clip seam allowances at curves. Turn collar right side out, straighten and press.
Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Overlock the outer edge.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Clip seam allowances at curves. Stitch the bottom corner. Turn front facings right side out, straighten seams.
Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams. Attach the front facing to the seam joining the upper and lower front parts.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overlock.
Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.