Flap Pocket Collared Pencil Dress
A women's below-the-knee pencil dress with a waist seam, a notched collar and lapels, a five-button front ending at the waist and two patch pockets with buttoned flaps on the skirt. Two-piece sleeves with turn-back cuffs; zip and slit in the centre back seam.
When To Wear
- At the office and for business meetings.
- In autumn and spring, with court shoes or ankle boots.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with princess seams on the front and darts on the back, joined at the waist to a straight, darted pencil skirt.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; under collar set into the dress neckline, upper collar into the facings.
Front: Upper front with a centre panel and a side panel joined by a princess seam; cut-on lapels with interfaced front facings. The right front laps over the left and both are caught into the waist seam.
Closure: Five buttons on the bodice front, and a zip in the centre back seam.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, ending above the wrist, with interfaced cuffs turned back.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the lower front, each with a two-layer flap above it fastened with one button.
Back: Upper and lower back with darts, a centre back seam with a zip, and a slit at the hem; the slit area is interfaced and edge-stitched 0.2 cm from the edge.
Skirt: One-piece lower front cut on the fold, with darts.
Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; hem finished with blind stitches.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Notched collar with front facings, princess seams, two-piece sleeves with cuffs, patch pockets with flaps, a zip and a slit in the centre back seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven fabrics with body that hold a fitted shape: suiting, wool blends, gabardine, cotton or linen blends with some body.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (upper centre fronts, front facings, collar, back neckline facing, cuffs, flaps, slit area of the lower back)
- Zip for the centre back
- 7 buttons (5 for the front, 1 for each pocket flap)
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 1 piece on fold
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Upper Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Also, fuse interfacing to the area of the Lower Back near the slit mark.
- Stitch darts on the Upper Back and Lower Back, press the dart intakes towards the center. Stitch the Upper Back to the Lower Back. Overlock allowances and press down. Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the top to the zipper mark and from the second zipper mark to the slit mark. Press allowances open. Insert the zipper. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the princess seams joining the Upper Center Front and Upper Side Front, overlock allowances and press towards the center. Stitch darts on the Lower Front, press the dart intakes towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the dress, overlock allowances and press open.
- Place the two Collar pieces (upper and lower collar) right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the allowance of the front edge seam: in the button closure area – onto the facing, in the lapel area – onto the front. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Press the collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
- Place two Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim allowances, turn the flap right side out, and press. Overlock the Pocket along the contour. Fold the upper edge inwards and topstitch. Press the pocket allowances to the wrong side. Place the Pocket on the Lower Front and topstitch. Attach the flap to the front along the upper pocket marking line (the finished edge is directed towards the neckline).
- Place the right front over the left front, aligning the center lines, and secure at the lower edge. Attach the Lower Front to the upper front. Overlock the allowance and press down.
- Stitch the side seams. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve along the elbow seam and press open. Overlock allowances. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Overlock allowances. Set the sleeve into the armhole, overlock allowances.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment. Fold allowances to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Place two Cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along the long and short sides, starting and ending the stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment line. Trim corners, turn the cuff right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, aligning the mark with the front seam. Fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and stitch into the attachment seam. Fold the cuff upwards.
- Make buttonholes on the front and the flaps. Sew on buttons.
