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#2039
#2041

Pleated Stand Collar Blouse

Pattern #2040

A women's long-sleeved blouse with a stand collar, a V-shaped front yoke and pleats released from the yoke at the centre front. It fastens with a button and a bias loop at the back neck. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: light to medium woven blouse fabrics that hold a pressed pleat: cotton shirting, poplin, linen, viscose, crepe de chine.

Tech. Description

Pleated Stand-Collar Blouse

A women's long-sleeved blouse with a stand collar, a V-shaped front yoke and pleats released from the yoke at the centre front. It fastens with a button and a bias loop at the back neck.

When To Wear

  • At the office, tucked into or worn over trousers and skirts.
  • Under a jacket or cardigan in spring and autumn: the stand collar shows above the neckline.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, slightly flared below the yoke by the front pleats, hip length.

Collar: Stand collar cut in two layers, the outer stand sewn to the neckline and the inner stand topstitched into the seam.

Front: A front yoke with a point at the centre; a centre front panel cut on the fold, with pleats along its upper edge turned towards the side seams; side front panels joined by princess seams.

Back: A back yoke in two pieces whose centre edges are pressed under and topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge, leaving a slit at the back neck; the back below the yoke is cut on the fold.

Closure: One button on the left end of the stand and a bias-cut loop sewn into the right end.

Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a slit at the wrist topstitched 0.1 cm from the fold, finished with a buttoned cuff.

Finishing: Hem turned to the wrong side and topstitched; seams serged.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleats set into a pointed yoke seam, princess seams, a two-layer stand with a rouleau loop, sleeve slits and cuffs.

Fabric Recommendations

Light to medium woven blouse fabrics that hold a pressed pleat: cotton shirting, poplin, linen, viscose, crepe de chine.

Additional Supplies

  • Fusible interfacing (collar stand, cuffs)
  • 3 buttons (1 for the stand, 1 for each cuff)

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
    • Back yoke — 2 pieces
    • Back – 1 piece on fold
    • Front yoke – 1 piece
    • Center front — 1 piece on fold
    • Side front — 2 pieces
    • Collar stand – 2 pieces
    • Sleeve – 2 pieces
    • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • From fusible interfacing:
    • Collar stand – 1 piece
    • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

  1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
  2. Serge the center edges of the back yoke separately. Press the seam allowances of the center edges to the wrong side and topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Attach the back yoke to the back, press seam allowances down and serge.
  3. Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and serge.
  4. Along the upper edge of the center front piece, create and secure pleats (depths directed towards the side seam). Attach the front yoke to the front, press seam allowances up and serge.
  5. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
  6. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 5 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and shape the loop. Adjust the loop length.
  7. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and ends, starting and ending the stitching precisely at the collar stand attachment line. Insert the loop between the collar stands on the right side. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the collar stand right side out, and press. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
  8. Serge the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and serge.
  9. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold under the seam allowance of the inner cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
  10. Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
  11. Make buttonholes on the cuffs, sew on buttons. Sew a button on the left side of the collar stand.

Features

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Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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