Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Cut a bias strip for the back slit facing, equal to double the slit length + 4 cm, and 5 cm wide. Press the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out. Mark the slit line on the back, then cut. Lay the back flat along the slit line, place the bias strip right side down, aligning the raw edges, and stitch. The seam allowance along the slit length should be 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, encasing the seam, and topstitch into the seam line.
3. Finish the outer edge of the neckline facing. Place the facing and front piece right sides together and stitch the neckline. Trim seam allowances, clip the corner, turn the facing to the wrong side, press, and secure to the front piece along the neckline edge.
4. Form and secure the pleats on the front piece.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the blouse, press seam allowances towards the back, and overcast.
6. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 5 cm long for the fabric loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out, and shape the loop. Adjust the loop length.
7. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and ends, starting and ending the stitching precisely at the collar stand attachment line. Insert the fabric loop between the collar stands on the right side. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim corners, turn the collar stand right side out, and press. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the inner collar stand, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
8. Along the upper part of the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Form and secure the pleat at the bottom of the sleeve. Overcast the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
9. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Stitch the outer cuff to the sleeve, fold under the seam allowance of the inner cuff, and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
10. Press the bottom hem of the garment to the wrong side twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
11. Make buttonholes on the cuffs, sew on buttons. Sew buttons on the left side of the collar stand.