Asymmetrical Wrap Jacket
A women's hip-length jacket with an asymmetric front that overlaps to the left and fastens with one button under a high funnel collar. Cut-on sleeves with wide double cuffs, single-welt pockets, a separate tie belt and a full lining.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a fine knit, blouse or dress.
- With straight trousers or a pencil skirt, belted at the waist or worn open-belted.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose body, drawn in at the waist by the tie belt.
Length: To the hip.
Collar: High funnel collar with a centre seam; it continues into the front edge, so the opening runs diagonally.
Sleeves: Cut in one with the front and back, with a seam along the top of the arm; the underarm seams are stitched together with the side seams. Finished with a cuff sewn into a ring and folded in half.
Closure: Asymmetric overlap with one buttonhole and button at the top of the front edge.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts, welts topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge and their short sides stitched down to the front.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with a back neck facing.
Waist: Separate tie belt, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Finishing: Front edges and collar topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the left side seam and joined to the hem and the inner layer of the cuffs.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets, a collar set into both the jacket and the facing with clipped corners, and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven fabrics with body that keep the collar upright: wool blends, twill, gabardine, firm crepe, suiting.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (body, pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, facings, collar, back neck facing, welts)
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Right front – 1 piece
- Left front – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Left collar – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
Attention! Back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the back neckline facing and front facing respectively.
From fusible interfacing:
- Right front – 1 piece
- Left front – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Left collar – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Trim corners, turn the welt right side out, straighten, and press. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Mark the pocket placement. Mark a line on the welt defining the finished width of the welt. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the front facing to the large pocket bag. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the pocket lining to the wrong side. Press seam allowances flat. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. Topstitch the short sides of the welt to the front.
- Stitch the upper sleeve seams, press allowances open. Stitch the lower sleeve seams simultaneously with the side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the collar to the facing neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner, clip and press allowances open.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the lower corner, front edge, and collar. Clip allowances at curves, trim corners. Turn the facings to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Press the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances towards the cuff.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Press allowances. Stitch the lining to the facings and neckline facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams. Secure the collar attachment allowances together. Through the technological opening, stitch the lining to the bottom of the garment and stitch the lining to the inner side of the cuff. Stitch the technological opening closed.
- Topstitch along the front edges and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Make a buttonhole on the front. Sew on the button.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch around the perimeter, leaving an opening for turning. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out, straighten, press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
