Bridal Skirt with Back Gores and Train

Fitted Maxi Skirt with Back Gores, Train and Flared Hem

A women's floor-length bridal skirt, fitted over the hips and flaring below, with a one-piece front, two side back gores, a centre back seam with a zipper and a train panel inserted along the centre back. Lined, with a faced waist.

When To Wear

• Weddings: as the skirt of a two-piece bridal outfit, with a corset or fitted top.
• Formal evening events, with a fitted bodice or blouse tucked in.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close to the body through the waist and hips, widening from the thigh to the hem.

Length: Floor length at the front, extending into a train at the back.

Waist: No waistband; the upper edge is finished with an interfaced facing joined to the lining.

Closure: 20 cm zipper in the upper centre back seam (2 cm seam allowance).

Front: One piece, no centre front seam.

Back: Two centre back panels and two side back panels; the train panel is inserted along the centre back.

Skirt: The train panel is inserted with a clean finish between the main fabric and the lining along the centre back seam.

Finishing: Overlocked seams; 2 cm hem sewn by hand.

Lining: Full lining cut from the front, side back and centre back pieces, hemmed separately and slightly shorter.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. A train set into the centre back seam between fabric and lining, a faced and lined waist with the zipper enclosed, and a hand-sewn hem on heavy satin.

Fabric Recommendations

Heavy satin. Fabric width at least 140 cm.

Additional Supplies

• Zipper, 20 cm
• Fusible interfacing (facings; seam allowances of the centre back zipper area and the waistline)
• Lining fabric

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric (Satin):

1. Center Back Skirt - 2 pieces
2. Side Back - 2 pieces
3. Train - 1 piece
4. Front Skirt - 1 piece
5. Front Skirt Facing - 1 piece
6. Back Skirt Facing - 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

1. Back Skirt Facing - 2 pieces
2. Front Skirt Facing - 1 piece

From Lining Fabric:

1. Side Back Lining - 2 pieces
2. Front Skirt Lining - 1 piece
3. Center Back Skirt Lining - 2 pieces

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Preparation and Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to all Facing pieces.

Additionally, interface the seam allowances along the center back seam (zipper area) and the waistline to stabilize these sections.

2. Main Fabric – Panel Assembly

Stitch the Front Skirt and Side Back panels.
Press the seam allowances toward the back and overlock.

3. Center Back Seam (Below Zipper)

Stitch the center back seam from the zipper marking down to the hem.
Press the seam allowances open and overlock.

4. Zipper Insertion

Insert the zipper into the upper section of the center back seam.

Ensure precise alignment at the waistline and a smooth transition into the stitched seam below.

5. Lining Assembly

Assemble the lining pieces in the same sequence as the main fabric.

Leave the center back seam open in the zipper area.
Press the seam allowances and overlock where necessary.

6. Facing and Lining Assembly

Stitch the interfaced Facing to the lining along the corresponding edge, aligning all notches.

Press the seam allowances toward the lining.
Treat the Facing and lining as one unit for further construction.

7. Waistline Assembly (Clean Finish)

Place the main skirt and the Facing–lining unit right sides together.

Insert the zipper edges between the layers and stitch along the waistline, enclosing the upper edge of the skirt.

Turn the Facing and lining to the inside.
Understitch the Facing to the seam allowances where possible.
Press the waistline carefully.

8. Train Panel Insertion

Position the Train Panel along the center back opening.

Insert the panel between the main fabric and the lining, aligning all corresponding edges precisely.

Stitch the seam, enclosing the Train Panel within the seam allowances to achieve a clean, fully finished edge.

Ensure the panel forms a smooth, continuous transition into the skirt and falls evenly.

Press the seam allowances carefully and overlock where accessible.

9. Back Finishing

Secure the lining to the zipper tape neatly by hand or machine, ensuring the zipper operates freely.

Close any remaining opening in the lining.

10. Hem Finishing

Finish the hem of the skirt with a 2 cm allowance:

Turn the hem to the wrong side and sew by hand for an invisible finish.

Finish the lining hem separately, ensuring it remains slightly shorter than the main skirt.

11. Final Pressing

Press the garment thoroughly, shaping the seams and ensuring the Train Panel falls evenly and smoothly.