Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: light satin (or taffeta), dense organza as a stiffening interlining for the top. Also needed: fusible interfacing; thin shoulder pads; sleeve heads, sleeve lining.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 140 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main and interlining fabric (satin is recommended for both main and lining):
- Back upper part – 2 pieces
- Back side part – 4 pieces
- Front upper part – 4 pieces
- Front side part – 4 pieces
- Back lower part – 4 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuffs – 2 pieces
- Back tab – 2 pieces
- Sleeves and sleeve facings – 2 pieces each (cut without organza interlining)
- From lining fabric:
- Sleeve lining
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back tab
- Sleeve facings
- Collars
- Cuffs
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- The upper layer of the tailcoat is duplicated with the base (dense organza) and stitched together along all edges, then faced with lining from the main fabric.
- Collars are asymmetrically sewn into the neckline up to the notches and have a soft shape. The end of the right collar is rolled into a rose and secured by hand.
- The cuff is attached to the sleeve up to the marks (the inner seam of the sleeve should already be stitched). The ends of the cuff are also rolled into a rose and secured with hand stitches.
- It is recommended to lay a lengthwise bias tape along the front shaped edge of the tailcoat skirt, slightly easing the fabric along the seam.
