Bridal Dress with Diagonal Bands and a Pleated Insert

Name: Bridal Dress with Diagonal Bands and a Pleated Insert
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2004
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2004

A women's strapless floor-length wedding dress with a boned, paneled bodice covered in diagonal satin bands, a pleated tulle insert down the centre front of the skirt and a skirt built from five separate layers. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: satin for the bodice, back skirt and bias bands; thin lace fabric; thin tulle; stiff tulle for the underskirt; lining fabric for the skirt.

Tech. Description

Bridal Dress with Diagonal Bands and a Pleated Insert

When To Wear

As a wedding dress for a church or civil ceremony.
For a formal evening reception.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting bodice to the waist, joined to a full, flared skirt.

Length: Floor length.

Neckline: Strapless, edged with lace trim attached by hand.

Front: Every bodice piece is fused satin under lace fabric; fused satin also lines the bodice. Metal or plastic bones, 2 cm shorter than the seam, sit in all bodice seams; the seams are covered with satin bias bands stitched on the diagonal over lace trim 4–5 cm wide.

Closure: Zip in the left side seam of the bodice.

Back: Plain bodice; back skirt in two pieces with a centre back seam.

Waist: The bodice-to-skirt seam is covered with a satin bias band folded in half, pressed to the band pattern and hand-sewn on a dress form. Two chiffon flowers with pleated inserts are attached at the left side.

Skirt: Five layers: pleated tulle front insert with a thin lace back, lace trim zigzagged over the seams and hem; lace front with a satin back; tulle front and back; stiff tulle underskirt; lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Boned two-layer bodice, diagonal bias bands, five skirt layers and hand finishing.

Fabric Recommendations

Satin for the bodice, back skirt and bias bands; thin lace fabric; thin tulle; stiff tulle for the underskirt; lining fabric for the skirt.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (all bodice pieces and bias bands)
Metal or plastic boning
Lace trim, 4–5 cm wide
Zip for the side seam
2 chiffon flowers with pleated inserts

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Seam allowance for the left side seam (for zipper insertion) of the garment - 2 cm. Other seams - 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.

From satin (atlas):
- Back skirt – 2 pieces
- All bodice pieces
- All bias bindings
From fusible interfacing:
- All bodice pieces
- All bias bindings
From thin tulle:
- Pleated skirt insert – 1 piece
- Front skirt – 1 piece
- Back skirt – 2 pieces
From thin lace fabric:
- All bodice pieces
- Front skirt - 1 piece
- Back skirt – 2 pieces
From stiff tulle:
- Underskirt – 1 piece on fold
From lining
- Skirt lining

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Try to observe the grain line direction.

All front bodice pieces consist of 1 layer of fused satin (for less transparency and density) and 1 layer of lace fabric. For the bodice lining, it is also recommended to use fused satin.
Metal or plastic boning, 2 cm shorter than the seam length (for ease of processing), should be inserted into all bodice seams.
All bodice seams, after stitching, are additionally covered with bias bindings stitched diagonally, and lace trim.
The skirt consists of 5 separate layers. The top layer of the front skirt made of pleated tulle is stitched to the top layer of the back skirt made of thin lace. Lace decorative trim is stitched along the seam lines with a zigzag stitch. Lace trim is also stitched along the bottom of the skirt – thus finishing the bottom edge.
Second skirt layer: the central of the front skirt made of thin lace is sewn to the back skirt made of atlas.
Third skirt layer: the central of the front skirt made of thin tulle is sewn to the back skirt made of thin tulle.
Fourth skirt layer: underskirt made of stiff tulle.
Fifth layer: skirt lining.
Zipper in the side seam of the bodice.
Attach lace trim to the finished bodice, along the neckline, with hand stitches.
Cover the seam line connecting the bodice to the skirt with a bias binding, folded in half and pressed as shown on the bias binding pattern piece. The bias binding is attached with hand stitches on a mannequin.
Attach 2 decorative chiffon flowers with pleated inserts to the left side of the skirt.